Update on the situation. First of all, the burned wires happened after I connected the ammeter, and while I was tinkering on the heater motor with power on. The liklihood that something just shorted out, with no relationship to the ammeter is strong. I have reviewed all the responses on this post (thanks for all input), and am going cross-eyed studying the wiring diagram from the factory assembly manual. The diagram shows one wire going to the positive side of the ammeter--12 ga black from the starter. It shows two wires going to the negative side of the ammeter- one is 14 ga red to the BATT terminal on the ignition switch, the other is 12 ga red which splits to feed the headlight switch and also connects to the B terminal on the voltage regulator. Since I don't have a voltage regulator, I am assuming the single wire from my alternator goes to ammeter negative, the same as the voltage regulator one would. With things connected in this fashion, the ammeter needle shows a strong 'charge' when I crank the engine. Shouldn't it show a strong 'discharge' when cranking?? The engine won't start, so I can't see what happens then--whole different issue !
In addition, the horn doesn't work, and I am certain the problem is the relay. It is the original relay, and is either defective or wired wrong. While attaching and removing the three-prong adapter, I can hear and feel the contacts moving inside. With the relay connected, and the horn button at the ready, there is power to the red power supply (as there should be), and power to the horn button lead. Pressing the horn button doesn't affect power to the lead. Is the relay defective, or are the black and tan wires to the horn and button reversed?
