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#877414 08/24/2012 10:41 PM
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New Guy
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I had an Ex-Auto body shop Owner at my home assessing some hail damage on my Caravan. He had a Street-rod T-0shirt on and my '53 1/2ton was sitting in the driveway so we got into the inevitable discussion on cars and trucks. He told me he had Restored or created over 300 units in his over 25 yr. career in the body Biz! Sounded like he really knew his stuff. The discussion topic turned to rust and POR 15 and he told me about Lord Fusor. I'd never heard of it, but he told me definately NOT to weld any patch panels, but rather use the Fusor 2 part epoxy to fuse the panles in place. He said they are completely heat resistent and work fantastic. His only word of caution was that you'd better get your panels in the right place the first time around...cuz they ain't movin' once they cure! Here's the Lord website link. Check it out and see what you think. I will give it a try.
http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/289

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M
'Bolter
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The use of panel adhesives in some cases will have the same issues as flanging and welding instead of butt welding the panel. With two sheet metal thicknesses on one side and only one on the other, you will have differing expansion rates between the two. This means that with exposure to the sun, you may see the telltale sign of a ghost line appear in the paint along the seam, especially with darker colors.

Panel adhesives, like many of the "advances" in auto body repair, are geared toward the collision industry, driven by the "tail wagging the dog", or controls that the insurance companies have over time and cost of repairs. Depending on your level of detail you are looking for, adhesives are a viable option. If you are looking for a show finish, the appearance of ghost lines after the fact may leave you dissapointed. Placing seams along body lines (if available) may help to mask these issues.

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4
'Bolter
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We use a similar product for some things, such as bonding a box cover (aluminum), to its frame (steel), and it works great.

For patch panels, we still weld them in and I don't think the epoxy is the way to go in that case. I would be interested in why he said not to weld. If you weld right, you minimize warping and it's easier for a novice to get the patch panel straight when welded.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
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C
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Originally Posted by Nifty53
an Ex-Auto body shop Owner... He told me he had Restored or created over 300 units in his over 25 yr. career in the body Biz! Sounded like he really knew his stuff.... I'd never heard of it, but he told me definately NOT to weld any patch panels... He said they are.... I will give it a try.

To each his own I guess. Personaly I tend to steer clear of one off recomendations of 'makes it easier and is just as good' claims when I can't find anyone 'Known'(and respected) in the field by others in the field suggesting it.

I had someone 'with his own resto shop' suggest chassi saver as a great product for my project.... Three years later and I'm blowing half of it off with air alone...

And no one recommends lap joints for body panels except maybe a floor pan for valid reasons... Rust.


Give me ambiguity
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by 46gmcpu
I would be interested in why he said not to weld.

In the collision industry that he comes from, time is money and the insurance company will only allot a certain amount of money (time) per said repair. In order to maximize (or realize) any profit, the shop needs faster methods or to cut corners. In and out the door in about three to four days. Hence the insurance companies dictate your repair methods, even charging an extra premium in some cases for the "luxury" of using OEM parts for replacement.....in case of an accident.

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C
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Originally Posted by MPandC
Originally Posted by 46gmcpu
I would be interested in why he said not to weld.

In the collision industry that he comes from, time is money and the insurance company will only allot a certain amount of money (time) per said repair. In order to maximize (or realize) any profit, the shop needs faster methods or to cut corners. In and out the door in about three to four days. Hence the insurance companies dictate your repair methods, even charging an extra premium in some cases for the "luxury" of using OEM parts for replacement.....in case of an accident.

Not exactly true everywhere... In Oregon we have someone in the auto body industry who see's things a bit different.

willamette week article on Lief's auto body
you may have seen this one during the superbowl...


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else

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