The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun Replacing rear wheel bearings

So guys/gals - I replaced the old rear wheel bearings (old ball type) with new roller bearings and am putting everything back together. What I'm finding is that when re-installing the hub, the outer lock nut is not getting alot of "thread" on the axle tube. If I overtighten the inner lock nut the hub begins to bind, but I want to get enough of the outer lock nut onto the threads so it won't back out.

Is this common when replacing wheel bearings? The hub seems to be seating fine, but don't want to throw the axle shaft back in only to find later that things ain't quite right. Advice?

Thanks - Carmental

Oh, should have mentioned its a 1950 1-ton.

I didn't change the type of bearings and I had no problems. The adjustment on the bearings is absolutely crtical so I would not alter that.

Sounds like the new bearings aren't as interchangeable as you might wish, what's the assembled width of each in comparison to the originals?. And or double check that you have both outer races fully seated in the hub.

Whatever you do don't over tighten the wheel bearing adjustment.

Grigg

Something is not seated right. Dont drive it till you get it right. You can destroy the axle & hub. The original brgs are conical roller brgs. The flat roller brgs replace them. They should fit right. Your spindle could be a little ruff not letting the inner brg. go back all the way.

Thankfully the truck is still only a frame, no motor quite yet, and no body. Sounds like I have some checking to do. I'm hoping that the local repair guy I had press the race and bearings in did it right, think its time I pay him a quick visit. Thanks for the heads-up guys.

carmental

Might be more than just pressing them right.
Might be your bearings aren't correct to start with.

Did you compare each set side by side new and old? I wonder if a new set is taller/thicker than one of the old, or perhaps both are?

You can probably check this after the fact from the numbers and the assembled bearing specs in the catalog.
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/pages/catalogs.aspx

Grigg

Well - I checked Timken's recommendation, and according to their catalog I have the correct bearings. Sadly, I had them pressed in by my local mechanic and he didn't keep the old set, so I don't have anything to compare the new ones to.

Is there any kind of independent way to verify the fit? Distance from axle end to axle end when installed?

Foolishly, I didn't take any pictures of the hub before I took them off the rear-end. When I put the outer bolt onto the hub and tighten it to where I think it should be, it is just about flush with the end of the axle tube. My memory is that there was about 1/8 of an inch remaining of the tube when the hub was taken off.

Take the hub off the axle tube and look inside it with a bright flashlight and an inspection mirror. You should see the outer bearing races (the cups) seated firmly against the bottom of their counterbores. If both cups are in all the way, one of the counterbores (probaby the outer) will need to be machined a bit deeper to allow both locknuts to get a good engagement on the axle tube. That shouldn't be a big challenge to a machinist with an accurate lathe and a 4-jaw chuck. Hopefully, you'll find one or both cups aren't seated fully and machining won't be necessary.
Jerry

Have you read how the assembly goes back together? The outer set is not a simple press in place. You have to install the race further towards the outside, install the lock ring and then press the race inwards against the lock ring. Was this done?

Hmmmm.... I wasn't aware of that. I got a mirror and took a look inside and the race appears to be fairly flush with the lock ring, but not completely. Pushing the outer further back into the hub would expose more threads on the tube, that just may do it. I think its time to make a trip back to my mechanic...

Thank you Truckernix!

You could probably take a brass drift and tap the race in against the snap ring.

You pegged it Nix. there was a small gap between the race and the ring. I took it back to my mechanic, he looked at me like I was nuts, but pressed them back together and viola! good fit. Once again the Stovebolters come through.

Thx - Bruce

Thanks for the great news!