Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
1 members (Bill Hanlon),
340
guests, and
6
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,159 Posts1,057,039 Members48,460 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | There was some discussion about the plumbing for the dual fuel pumps last month. I’ve got some pictures of a 5591547 fuel/vacuum pump installed on a 216, 3600 for anyone who is contemplating installing one for a little added boost to their vacuum wipers. Shows one way to plumb it in: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/5591547_fuelvacuum_pump Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | I was looking thru a Ford 28-48 parts book and it showed a vacuum tank for the windshield wiper system. Did Chevrolet ever use this to aide wiper operation. Denny, thanks for the diagram. That is one top shelf looking plumbing job! How about more information on the wire blunderer. Don | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | Really great looking job. It looks like you spent a lot of time bending and forming those hard lines but the results are a super clean look.
I've got a couple of questions - What size line are you using for your fuel and vacuum lines? And, where do you get the "raw" tubing? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | tks, Fuel = 5/16" Vacuum advance = 3/16" Vacuum wiper and manifold lines = 1/4" Any auto parts should stock brake tubing in bulk (25" rolls) or be able to get it by afternoon. I buy some from Inline Tube and this last batch I used on this truck I picked up at the local NAPA store. My brass fittings I buy from Fastenal and they also have brake tubing. The only problem is much of it is priced in bulk, like 10 or 20 items to a package. Still a lot cheaper if you're planing on doing more plumbing. Most items are 50% less and often times more that you would pay at the retail outlets like your FLAPS or Hardware store. Denny G
Last edited by Denny Graham; 08/11/2011 6:24 PM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Why, your welcome Tim, hope that answered your question.
For the purists out there, this is my interpretation, so if you're looking for the route used in R.P.O. 340A, I don't really know. There really isn't a clear illustration of the installation of the lines. The only thing that is shown in the FAM, are the termination points of the lines.
Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Denny, Years ago, I routed mine much like you did yours (one of two routing paths that I used on different trucks), except my tube bending left a lot to be desired (an understatement). Also, the termination/transition that I used near the firewall (tubing to the rubber hose to the wiper) did not look as good as yours. When I put a dual-action pump on the truck I am restoring (and maybe back on the Suburban), I'll have to decide what type of "binding" to use to hold the tubes together. I am not a fabricator, so I'll have to rely on other "solutions". There are these vacuum line to fuel line clips. These wire ties look pretty but are not right for this application. Once again, thanks. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | Sorry about the spelling Denny. Seems that hunting and pecking at the keyboard is not one of my better talents. Don | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | I’m pretty sure it was the small one Tim. Not knowing just what the tool was capable of doing I didn’t want to spend a bunch on it. Also if I needed a larger one and had the small one to copy off of, I could make my own. I couldn’t see spending a hundred bucks on the bigger one.
The one I have is supposed to handle up to 1/16” wire. Wire any smaller than that I wouldn’t want to use on a rubber hose, and you certainly don’t need anything any larger than that to bind metal tubes together.
I don’t remember seeing the metal tie wraps until the muscle car era, but they very well could have been used earlier than that. And once again, I have no idea what they used in the RPO 340A option.
Those metal clips are WAY over priced. All they are is a little strip of spring steel bent into a ‘C’ shape and $8.75 a pair plus S&H is highway robbery. I’m using the original ones that were on my original fuel/vacuum lines but refused to buy any more at that price.
Looks like there’s another project for me to add to my, “I think I can make that cheaper” list. To bad I gave my heat treat oven back to my nephew last year cuz I didn’t have the room for it in the barn.
Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Thanks, Denny,
On the vacuum/gas lines, did you use 1/16" stainless wire (.0625)? From whom did you buy it?
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | On this application Tim I just used a roll of Hillmans 19ga dark annealed Steel wire. I don't think you need anything as heavy as 16ga (1/16“) to hold the bundle together. A little wax worked into the wires should keep it from rusting since the only time I’m gonna see any rain is if I got caught in a burst by accident. If I were going to use this as my daily driver them I'd paint all the bare fasteners or use SS or plated fasteners. If I were using the wire ties I'd probably use a 304 SS annealed safety wire, which is available from any aircraft supply such as Aircraft Spruce and Specialty or less fancy galvanized wire from any hardware or farm supply. Remember now I've said I was a hoarder in the past so I've collected a pretty good selection of SS safety wire left over from when I was messing with the airplanes. I've picked up spools of general purpose steel wires when ever I see a size or finish that I didn't have on the shelf. Farm supplies have a lot of wires for bailing, fence repair and just general purpose. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/137189786/large I wouldn't over do it, it doesn't take a whole lot to hold a few tubes together and the leverage you could get with the larger Clamptite tools is enough to bend the tubing. Here are a few pictures of a wrap made with 16ga (1/16“) galvanized steel wire. This really pushes the limit of the small tool and you have to work at it to get it to look neat: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/5591547_fuelvacuum_pump&page=2Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Last edited by Denny Graham; 08/13/2011 6:32 PM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | |
| |