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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,049 Posts1,055,689 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 | so what do the fellow bolters on here think the going price is for middle seat and rear seat frames.
what would you pay,,, what have you paid??
frames only without springs???
lets hear your opinions | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | Recently the prices have been all over the board on ebay. The middle seat sold for $750, $600, $450 and a set sold for around $1200, $1800 and $2100. There was a reproduction set of 1941/47 seats that did not sell at $700.
I linked up plummer with a front seat and middle seat last year for I think $150 on one that I found on craigslist.
I just found a fairly complete Suburban with the middle seat in Dallas Texas on craigslist that I purchased and a friend stripped for me. It was really cheap considering what I got off of the Suburban.
And from what I can see on ebay, it's been a crap shoot on prices lately. About 6 months ago a complete set of 12 restored and polished fender trims sold for $1200 and $1350 and in the last week a set of 5 decent pieces and a set of nine dented pieces sold for $385 and $965.
So what I am saying is the market price depends on whose looking at that moment they are for sale and it could range widely.
Do you have a seat available or are you looking at one that's available? What kind of price do you have in mind? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 7 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 7 | i know someone who repos the middle and back let me no if u still looking... | | | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 800 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 800 | The frames should really have the seat springs in order to get good money. A middle or rear seat WITH springs should be anywhere from 200 to 600 or so. So that's about 400 as an average. That translates to about 1200 for a set. But if you're missing one seat, then you'll pay the asking price, right? Seats are probably more plentiful now as projects and pieces are being sold to raise cash for the little things, you know, like food and mortgages? I think GMONIZ is right on target. Supply and Demand, Caveat Emptor, Timing is Everything, Right place-Right Time---all that good stuff.  | | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 | Ive showed a friend my seat frames,He says he could make them, no prob. Ive had him do some other fab. work for me and he's very good,and super reasonable. Its the kind of thing he enjoys doing, so thats a plus. As far as $$$,,,thats still up in the air. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 | well after looking for a shop to repop me a correct set with no luck i invested in the correct dies, tubing, and extras and this is what i came up with,,,,,,,,,,, copied from an og set i was able to make myself a set and plenty extras http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180077.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180078.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180079.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180080.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180081.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180082.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180083.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180084.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180085.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180086.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180087.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180088.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180089.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180090.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180091.jpg | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | Price them reasonably and you be far ahead of the others that are in the process of making them. I know of three others who are in the process of making them.
Like I said there was a 1941/47 repro set for sale on ebay that did not sell for his starting price of $700.
If you were to sell them as kits, I believe that you would sell them all quickly. they will ship easier and cheaper. For assembled seats I would add $100 minimum each for shipping. Unassembled they may ship for less than $100 a pair.
BTW, the middle seat is for a 1941/47 Suburban and not a 1948/59 Suburban. what's with the extra wide lip at the bottom of the middle seat?
Now that you have tantalized us with the seats, what do you think you 're going to ask for them and are you going to list them in the swap meet for sale? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 | middle seat was copied from a 52' same as the rear seat.... has correct bends | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | I don't know what I was thinking! I guess I have been looking at too many seats lately  I was thinking they only had one arm rest, but they indeed have two. So what's the price going to be set on these? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 35 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 35 | I be interested in any reasonably priced repos of a second and third row seats. What do you all want for them, elhippie64 (and colleagues of harborarea and delux54panel)? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | I think a fair price would be no more than $250-$500 each, Let's see what he posts them for in the swap meet section, he has already offered them for sale. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 237 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 237 | I agree with GIMONIZ. Reproductions that are properly bent but knocked down for shipment would be the best way to go for reproductions.
I would be very surprised to see any come on scene with springs.
My intention is to within the next 6 to 12 months have a set reproduced by the same tubing bender who supplied me with custom rear ends for my 1941 1 Ton pickup and my 1946 Suburban. He knows his stuff. All he does for a living is build rearends and bend tubing in his shop.
I am going to use high density foam for my seat cushions.
My tubing bender has agreed to build one set for me and then price them accordingly for anyone else that wants them, he told me he would build others complete or knoched down.
My personal opinion is that the current price on the open market is completely dictated by the buyers level of desperation and the depth of their pockets. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 35 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 35 | Agreed. Like many others, I would love to put an order in for middle and rear seats (for my '53 burb) ... and $200-ish is entirely reasonable. I would figure it out myself, but I have my hands full with other parts of my restoration. Thanks all! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 226 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 226 | I would be interested in the middle seat. Now, This would be shipped to the state of MA. Now, where would I get the spring sets? are you getting those made to? Poets Seat AutoAppraisals, Parts, ServicePast: General Motor's Master Technician Member: Northeast Chevy/GMC Truck ClubPhone Number: 413.774.5856 Collector of: 1951 Army Chevy Burb barn door,53 GMC COE,two 1934 Chevy Truck,1935 Chevy Army Truck.1950 Gmc Suburban clamshell these are just my chevy/gmc trucks.
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I wondered about the springs too. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 | sorry guys but no springs for the seats. I do know people who have sold off there og springs to use the high density foam like the modern auto, for more comfort and they have all suggested i do the same. (This is the route i am going on all me seats)
As for the price of the frames,, after pricing them out when i was trying to have them made, the price of materials, time involved, past prices frames alone have sold for, and talking to resto/fab shops locally the last couple days.
pm me if you are interested
Last edited by Tony'N Weatherford; 04/23/2010 2:19 AM. Reason: NO ADVERTISING !!!!
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | [elhippie64]
As for the price of the frames,, after pricing them out when I was trying to have them made, the price of materials, time involved, past prices frames alone have sold for, and talking to resto/fab shops locally the last couple days.
The prices are reasonable, but not cheap. That's about what I paid for my originals $400 for the first set and $700 for the second set. I know how much time it takes to do a project like this. These prices will drive down prices on the original seats, but they will still have a little more value than the reproduction seats, especially if they have the original springs. Most of the originals have been purchased to put into a Suburban, so there will be fewer available for purchase in the future. All of that and more, is what goes into determining value plus demand. Can you tell us any differences that would pop out to someone who knows what the original seats look like? Did you look into the mounting hardware necessary for bolting them down to the floor? Is there much prep work need to get them painted? If buying in pieces, what parts will be left off and will there be directions on to where they go so that they can be welded back on? I think it's time to get this one in the swap meet section. Thanks........g
Last edited by GMONIZ; 04/23/2010 5:47 AM. Reason: FIXED BROKEN LINK
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 | The prices are reasonable, but not cheap. That's about what I paid for my originals $400 for the first set and $700 for the second set. I know how much time it takes to do a project like this. These prices will drive down prices on the original seats, but they will still have a little more value than the reproduction seats, especially if they have the original springs. Most of the originals have been purchased to put into a Suburban, so there will be fewer available for purchase in the future. All of that and more, is what goes into determining value plus demand. G,,,,, i fill the price is resonably cheep when compaired to your 1st reply on this topic. actually 1/2 to 1/3 the price of what you had listed them selling for. I have seen modified truck frames, and incorrect repops sell for 4-500 each., For a working man like myself with kids and bills or until we all get those $150 craigslist deal emails, its a better alternative to paying the high prices og frames sell for. like i said that is the price i can sell them for on "HERE" if i choose to list them elsewere who knows,,, but i definitly will not be droping that price. also from what i have been told there is an overall more comfortable ride using the foam bottoms and back than compaired the og springs. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | Not arguing about your price, it's yours to sell. In fact I am promoting these to guys that are looking for them. It is better than some I have seen. If these were being sold by a dealer, they would be twice the price. I am sure that soon there will be some more competition and at least you're out in front right now. You are the only one that I know that has built ready to sell seats for sale. The problem using ebay as a guide, its that the prices are often inflated and sometimes the prices don't really reflect the market. Both of my sets were non ebay purchases. One of the purchases was through the stovebolt and the guy was close to me and delivered them, so no shipping costs. The other set was a couple of years ago and a guy flagged me down when he saw my suburban being towed. I applaud what you are doing and I have no issues with how you price them, I hope I am giving you good information that will help you. Right now with your pricing, they look to be a good value, not cheap, but reachable for many burb owners. I hope you sell out!  | | | | | Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 793 Bondo Artiste | | Bondo Artiste Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 793 | elhippie64, I think your seats look great and from what I can see in the photos look to be of good quality. Your pricing seems more than fair to me, and if I did not already have my seats I would be right there ordering a set.
~ Phillip 1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project 1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic 1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver- Sold 9-15-25 1946 Chevy COE - SOLD 1-5-26 BUH BYE CHEVY! 1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | elhippie64,
Those frames look real nice and the prices seem quite fair.
As Jim Carter states in several places in his catalog, "for the perfectionist" it would be nice if someone comes up with a source of fitted-blocks that go under the attachment wing-nuts.
Good job.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Get some aluminum square bar stock, drill a hole in it and cut it in half. Or a modified version of that idea, whatever. Anyway, that will make your hold down blocks. I used a washer bent around a round bar. This is the longest thread about seats I've ever seen, and I just added to it!
Last edited by bartamos; 04/26/2010 2:08 AM.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 65 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 65 | The prices are reasonable, but not cheap. That's about what I paid for my originals $400 for the first set and $700 for the second set. I know how much time it takes to do a project like this. These prices will drive down prices on the original seats, but they will still have a little more value than the reproduction seats, especially if they have the original springs. Most of the originals have been purchased to put into a Suburban, so there will be fewer available for purchase in the future. All of that and more, is what goes into determining value plus demand. G,,,,, i fill the price is resonably cheep when compaired to your 1st reply on this topic. actually 1/2 to 1/3 the price of what you had listed them selling for. I have seen modified truck frames, and incorrect repops sell for 4-500 each., For a working man like myself with kids and bills or until we all get those $150 craigslist deal emails, its a better alternative to paying the high prices og frames sell for. like i said that is the price i can sell them for on "HERE" if i choose to list them elsewere who knows,,, but i definitly will not be droping that price. also from what i have been told there is an overall more comfortable ride using the foam bottoms and back than compaired the og springs. Are you guy's saying "SET" (front,middle,rear) or was that misspelled and should read "seat" (middle or rear)
New but in an Old Way !!!
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | J-KAT, you're late to the conversation. We are talking sets. elhippie64 is fabricating the middle and rear seats for the suburban. He has sets made and his prices are better than what you will find on ebay. He will sell individual or both seats. Email him for prices. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 35 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 35 | Does anyone know if a 1955-59 suburban middle seat will fit a 1953 sub? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 | | | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 51 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 51 | | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 256 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 256 | The prices are reasonable, but not cheap. That's about what I paid for my originals $400 for the first set and $700 for the second set. I know how much time it takes to do a project like this. These prices will drive down prices on the original seats, but they will still have a little more value than the reproduction seats, especially if they have the original springs. Most of the originals have been purchased to put into a Suburban, so there will be fewer available for purchase in the future. All of that and more, is what goes into determining value plus demand. G,,,,, i fill the price is resonably cheep when compaired to your 1st reply on this topic. actually 1/2 to 1/3 the price of what you had listed them selling for. I have seen modified truck frames, and incorrect repops sell for 4-500 each., For a working man like myself with kids and bills or until we all get those $150 craigslist deal emails, its a better alternative to paying the high prices og frames sell for. like i said that is the price i can sell them for on "HERE" if i choose to list them elsewere who knows,,, but i definitly will not be droping that price. also from what i have been told there is an overall more comfortable ride using the foam bottoms and back than compaired the og springs. What thickness of foam do you reccemend?
Last edited by bigtony55; 10/10/2010 9:09 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 226 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 226 | When dealing with foam... Keep in mind.... There are diffrent types of foam. I would recomend using three diffrent kind or at min. use two types. I can buy foam whole sale and just for my 35 chevy seat. I forgoed the og seat fram and used foam. and I made it fit the seat cover. On the seat back I used only one type of foam and on the seat bottom. The bottom layer was a dense foam with a softer one on top. IT is very nice. But, my cost for the foam was still over 300.00 last summer.
so, You have to figure if the foam is the way for your project or not. For that truck it is worth it.
For my two suburbans? Well, I would still say yes but, in the end the costs may come out about the same. and You must use an automotive foam otherwise It will fall apart in a short time. Poets Seat AutoAppraisals, Parts, ServicePast: General Motor's Master Technician Member: Northeast Chevy/GMC Truck ClubPhone Number: 413.774.5856 Collector of: 1951 Army Chevy Burb barn door,53 GMC COE,two 1934 Chevy Truck,1935 Chevy Army Truck.1950 Gmc Suburban clamshell these are just my chevy/gmc trucks.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 121 | havent been on here too much because of i dont really have pc access, but i have thought about modifing/shortining truck springs to fit.
jus by looking at them they seem about the same as suburban springs just wider. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 42 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 42 | are the front bench (short) seat pads the same from a 1947-1959, that would fit on these frames? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 256 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 256 | | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | Although that steel plate is a replacement, there was always a steel plate for the jump seat in the suburban. The suburban uses the same floor pan with a few modifications and with the indentation that goes under the tool box on the truck and panel, they needed the plate to be flat for the jump seat to work. As far as the location of the jump seat in conjunction with the drivers seat, they had to have a reference point for the "normal position and I think they set the jumper seat as the base. Your jumper seat looks to be in the same position as my 48. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 256 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 256 | Although that steel plate is a replacement, there was always a steel plate for the jump seat in the suburban. The suburban uses the same floor pan with a few modifications and the indentation that goes under the tool box on the truck and panel. They needed the plate to be flat for the jump seat to work. As far as the location of the jump seat in conjunction with the drivers seat, they had to have a reference point for the "normal position and I think they set the jumper seat as the base. Your jumper seat looks to be in the same position as my 48. Ok it just seemed weird to me to have the driver side seat all the way back and have to have the passenger sitting forward of that i need my sie of the seat to be back i have a BIG belly LOL i think when i redo my floor im going to line the pass side up to the all the way back driver side so they match and pass and driver sit at same level | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | Let's not hijack this thread anymore than what we have already done. Start a new post with your questions. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | bigtony55,
Please post this question/topic as a new post/thread (as GMONIZ suggests).
I can post a few photos, once I fully understand your question/point.
Would you try to break up your separate thoughts/questions into separate sentences? I have had a hard time trying to figure out the end of each sentence.
Thanks,
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 256 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 256 | Ok sorry guys i figured i would ask my ?'s in here since it was a topic about the seats instead of starting a whole new topic and gluttering up the board with new one ? topics and TTT for the seller of these seats im a customer myself 
Last edited by bigtony55; 11/18/2010 9:38 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 256 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 256 | well after looking for a shop to repop me a correct set with no luck i invested in the correct dies, tubing, and extras and this is what i came up with,,,,,,,,,,, copied from an og set i was able to make myself a set and plenty extras http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180077.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180078.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180079.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180080.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180081.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180082.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180083.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180084.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180085.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180086.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180087.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180088.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180089.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180090.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/elhippie64/P4180091.jpgI got my 3rd row from elhippie64 and its as nice in person as it is in his pics nice clean work thanks alot a+ | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Tony,
What will you use for seat cushions?
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