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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 41
D
dbt
Offline
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 41
Found an old truck which had been cut into pieces. Owner gave me anything I wanted. I pulled the VIN plate from the right side firewall cowl. It's a 1946. Plate is steel; must have been galvanized? Stamped number is, of course, readable. The rest of the plate is mostly a medium gray haze. Holding it just-so in the light, I can read some of it. I'm afraid to scrub much with anything. Has anyone had much luck, "restoring," even some of the readability in these??? Tips? Thanks, Dennis

Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 544
A
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
A Offline
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 544
if you can remove it, put it in an electrolysis bath.

I am also restoring a 1944 John Deere B tractor and could not decipher all the numbers on the SN. Could get enough to get the year, but that was all.

Take the plate and place in a plastic container. I have found that plastic Maxwell House coffee cans work best (have a recess for the handle that seperates the electrode from the part.

Fill with water and about a teaspoon of baking soda, wire some baling wire or some other wire through the hole. place in the water. take a piece of salvage metal and slip down in the hole. take a old fashioned (non-automatic) battery charger and connect the positive lead to the salvage piece and place the negative to the part needed to remove the rust/oxidation. turn the charger on and let it sit for a few hours. remove. it will oxidize a little, but will wipe off. should make it more readable.

On a related note, this works on any metal, to remove rust. save the busted knuckles and worn arms. you can put as big a part as you can submerge in a non-metallic container. You can also add some lye to the water and not only remove rust, but paint as well. Has saved me HOURS of work.

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,378
T
Ex Hall Monitor
Ex Hall Monitor
T Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,378
Mine had been painted over and trying to remove the new paint also was removing the original paint. I ended up having to buy & stamp a reproduction data plate. Electrolysis won't help unless your issue is rust. You should be able to get a replacement data plate from one or more of the vendors. If you are a VCCA member there's a fellow making & selling data plates to members already correctly stamped for $15. All of the repop data plates I've seen are aluminum instead of the original material (galvanized steel???).


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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 176
K
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
K Offline
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 176
Another difference is, I believe, that the new plates are etched and the originals have some kind of a film applied that contains the writing. Furthermore, the lettering is a different size than the original, at least on the 39-41 truck plates, and consequently they look really bad.
I'm scheming up a method to restore originals, but am not ready to report yet.

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,300
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,300
I have never used these people and it seems that I have heard mixed reviews but their site is interesting. Ftrom what I understood, they will make you give proof of ownership to make sure that you are not having them help hide a stolen vehicle.
http://www.datatags.com/

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,107
5
'Bolter
'Bolter
5 Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,107
if your just trying to get the data off of it take a piece of paper and cover the tag then use a carpenders pencil and scribble lightly over the tag it should transfer the data to the paper where you can make out what it says.

Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 544
A
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
A Offline
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 544
for the paint/rust issue on electrolysis, use lye (septic tank main line cleaner at Home Depot, sodium hydroxide) will peel the paint right off.

I have a 5 gallon bucket with water and lye that i dump small painted parts, including old license plates in for a few days and pull it out and wipe the old paint away. But this process is without the electric battery charger.


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