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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 | Guys, thanks to some helpful bolters responses on what type screw held the sending unit in the tank on my 57 truck, I was able to go to the store and get a Robertson square head #2 bit and remove my non functioning sending unit. When I bought the truck the guage worked. Then shortly afterwards it stopped. When the key is flipped the fuel gauge pegs full. I checked the wiring and found the guage to be working properly and the wiring to be okay. The only thing left was either a bad sending unit or stuck float. When I removed the sending unit I quickly saw the problem. The thin copper strip that connects from the top of the rheostat to the connection point at the top of the unit was broke into. I think I can just resolder the strip back together and put it back in. Has anyone ever done this or see a reason that it wouldn't be the proper repair. I appreciate anyone taking the time to give feedback. thanks,  | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | You could solder the copper strip or replace it with a bare wire. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 | Excellent Cletis. I appreciate your feedback. Have you ever seen this done? Sorta would like to keep the original sending unit. I read a post here one time that said the guy bought one from some parts place and I remember him saying it was a very cheaply made Japan model but it did work. Sorta dont want to go that way except as a last resort.
thanks, | | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 1,002 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 1,002 | I had the copper strip break on one of my 60s trucks. I either used a piece of wire as Cletis mention or soldered a strip of brass/copper or brass rod over the break. I never had a problem with it again. A solder joint by it self would not be strong enough. Make sure you clean the metal good, use a good paste flux, or if it is tarnished pretty good use an acid flux. Get the metal hot and let the solder flow on. It will probably require a good 60 watt iron or a soldering gun 100 watt.
Larry
I don't own a vehicle that isn't old enough to drink.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 58 | Hey guys, thanks for the good information. I took it to work with me today and made the repair. We took another piece of copper about the same size and layed it over the split, cleaned everything real good and let the solder flow. When I got home and installed it hit the switch and bingo.....3/4 of a tank....got gas to burn and took the ole bolt up the road smiling like I just got a new toy. Man I love these ole trucks!
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