The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop How to: 1950 1/2 ton - Frame Painting?

Hi All,

I am starting to strip my frame on my 1950 1/2 ton to paint. I have a small 20 x 20 garage so my space is a premium. It starting to feel a bit overwhelming with such little room (not sure where to put the cab)but I've seen guys do more with less than I have. How did you guys paint your frames? In order to be able to rotate it to paint both sides I would have to get it pretty far off the ground to be able to make the rotation, mainly because the running board brackets stick out to far. Can someone post pictures of how they painter their frames? Did you paint top and bottom side one at a time?

Thanks,
skipper

I used a small detail HVLP gun and a creeper to shoot the underside.

Frames are not that heavy. Put it up on solid sawhorses. Have a friend help you flip it over. Do the underside first except for the front and rear crossmembers. Flip it back and do the rest of the frame including crossmembers,top and bottom. It can be done in an hour if your frame is clean.

Heres Deves web site with some pics Deves web site

I have a 3 car garage and quickly ran out of space.
Pic.

I was able to move my cab around with just that garden wagon in that first pic. The cab in not that heavy.

I just rattle can painted my frame. I was just going for some protection. Not showroom results. Where I live there is no conern over rust.

Good Luck

Here is a thread I started on using engine stands. This may give you some ideas. Have fun and good luck
Dan

Very clever guys! I like the rotating idea but I would have to buy engine stands. I think I can make sturdy enough saw horse stands to hold my frame. What does a frame weigh?

thanks,
skipper

Look into power coating your frame.cost less then you think' a little over $100.a shop in Akron, Ohio.do power coating .the price is as said above.Those Cal folks are ripping a new hole you know where.

I wired wheeled my frame down. Afterwards I wiped it with thinner to clean it. I then used Eastwoods rust converter and then Eastwoods Rust encapsulator. Afterwards I gave it a light scuff and then hung it outside on my engine hoist. I sprayed it with Rustoleum Industrial semi gloss black. It looks awesome. Not perfect, but awesome.

I wanted to have my frame sand blasted and powdercoated, but the cheapest I could find in my area was around $750.

I did my whole frame for $110 and my labor. Another good thing about the Rustoleum is it is very easy to touch up if and when it gets scratched.

Here is a photo, check my album for the whole process.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2210667530031183259EWUKXl

Wow, your frame turned out fantastic. A few questions, the rust converter is that like a product called Metal-Prep? Metal-Prep turns metal a yellowish color once it is washed off.
How many quarts of the rust encapulator did you use and did you brush it on?
Did you have to do anything special to the encapulator to get the Rustoleum top coat on it?

Thank!

Metal prep is different than the rust converter. After you apply rust converter you do not wash it off, it stays on.

I bought only one quart of the rust encaspulator, and have plenty left over. That stuff covers very well. I applied it with a foam brush, that made it real easy to get into all of the cracks.

Once that cured, I lightly scuffed the whole frame with 320 grit sandpaper, blew off the dust and I was off to the races with the Rustoleum.

Frame looks great, and it is easy to touch up scratched during reassembly.