The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Dixson engine analyzer

Iv'e had this analyzer for many years. Used it on my old Starcraft boat with the mercruser 4 cyl, and my '55 Chev sedan. Took it down off the shelf yesterday and found that the instruction manual is missing. Its got red and black wires with clips and another wire with what looks like a shunt hookup. I can't remember how to hook it up. Don't want to hook it up wrong and smoke it! Anybody remember this equipment, and where to attach the wires? Like to be able to use it on my '55 pickup.[URL=http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/capnduane/media/Dixsonengineanalyzer003_zps925f6fa7.jpg.html]Photoshop[/url]

The shunt is the ammeter connection- - - -disconnect the BAT wire at the regulator (DC generator systems), attach the slotted end to the regulator terminal, and the BAT wire to the other end of the shunt. You can probably check alternator amps the same way- - - -slotted end to the big connector stud at the back of the alternator and the battery wire to the other end of the shunt. The red and black test probes are used for everything else- - -voltage, dwell, tach, etc. That one's just about dummy-proof, not much way to damage it with a wrong hookup.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry for the info. Then, the red clip would attach to the negative on the coil and the black to a ground for dwell and tach?

For voltage readings on a negative ground system, attach the black clip to ground and the red clip to whatever connector you need a voltage reading from, ignition switch, battery terminals, generator, lights, etc. The same pair of leads is used for checking point dwell, red lead to the distributor side of the coil, and black to ground. The same hookup is used for RPM readings- - - -push the high or low RPM button instead of "dwell". The "low volts/points" button is used for checking point resistance. With the ignition on and the points closed, with the red lead attached to the coil (-) terminal, the needle reading should be as close to zero as possible. Any measureable reading there indicates the points are dirty and need to be cleaned or replaced. A good set of points should indicate the same voltage as ground when closed. I'm not exactly sure what the "ignition output" button is for, never had much luck checking secondary ignition performance without an oscilloscope.
Jerry

Then for dwell and tach I would put black clip to ground and red to positive side of coil which is the distributor side?

No-No-No- - - - -"read my lips"- - - -the distributor side of the coil is the NEGATIVE (-) terminal unless somebody has reversed the polarity for some reason. You're not running a 6 volt GMC, are you? The POSITIVE side of the coil is the wire that comes from the ignition switch, and should have dropping resistor voltage (about 9V while running) for a 55 2nd. series Chevy 6 or V8, or battery voltage for a 55 1st. series 6 cylinder.

The only time the distributor side of the coil would be positive would be a 6 volt GMC or a pre-1957 Ford. Put the red test lead on the wire that goes to the distributor, and don't worry about the polarity- - - -it should measure dwell properly at either polarity.
Jerry

Ok, Jerry, thanks so much for your time and help with this analyzer. I will write the instructions on the side of the case so in the future, I will be able to use it. It's been setting on the shelf over my workbench for about 25 years or so. I never dreamed I would ever need it again, one never knows! My truck is a '55 2nd 3100 with a Pontiac 400 and Muncie 4 speed trans, both are 1967 vintage, probably out of a Catalina.

OK, glad to help! That one seems to be one of the better combination-type testers. It can be used to check out charging systems, either generator or alternator type, and the "low volts" scale will be useful for finding high-resistance connections in a starting circuit. By placing the voltmeter leads across a battery cable connection like from a battery post to the cable clamp that attaches to it, then cranking the engine, the "voltage drop" across that connection can be measured. By checking every connection that way, a bad cable or a high-resistance connection can be isolated. The maximum voltage drop across a connection on a 12 volt system is 2/10 volt, and zero voltage drop from one end to another of a cable. That's about the only way I know of to find a cable that's corroded internally. Doing those tests on a 6 volt system can cure slow-crank problems. On a 6 volt setup, the max drop across a connection is 1/10 volt.

Jerry