The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Harbor freight engine stand

Received a 1000LB HF engine stand for Xmas. Has anyone had any experience using it with a 235? Should I return it for the next weight size

I have never trusted engine stands that support an engine one one end, no matter who sold it. I always built a leg to support the other end. I now use an OTC OTC-1735B. It is the best setup I have ever seen for small to medium engines. We have a larger OTC engine stand that bolts to the side of the block on 14 liter engines. But we no longer overhaul these engines. I think the HF stand will be ok if you support the engine in the front. If nothing else, bolting a 1x4 to the front of the engine and propping it up on the floor will stabilize it.

I think the concern with a smaller lift is more about tipping/stability though you'll likely hear more about the country of origin as the reason for caution...
Longer legs always go good with a Sexy Six...

You asked: bring the 1000 lb stand back for a 2000 lb stand.

The 216/235/261 engines are too long for the 1000 stand's legs/geometry.

You'll be safely able to roll around and rotate a stovebolt engine on the 2000 lb stand.

I have used a Northern Tools and a Harbor Freight 1000 lb frame - they were unstable. The 2000 HF frame is excellent.

Can't rotate it, but I found a design in the archives a bolter made w/4X4's, casters and 2X6's. Looked really solid.

I made and use two of those Tech Tips dollys/caddys/stands . Excellent/cheap swivel and non-swivel casters are available at Harbor Freight (I think I went for over-kill with 250/300 lb wheels).

I have my 235 sitting in one of those 4x4 and 2x6 wooden cradles. I also have, i believe is a harbor freight engine stand. Not sure of it's weight capacity but it has four casters. I didn't care for the front part as it felt unsteady with the 235 on it so i replaced the steel bar in front with one that is a bit thicker walled and longer to give it a wider stance in front where the weight of the motor would make it tipsy.

Joe

Thanks for all of your responses. I knew that you fellow bolters would have the answers. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all THRS 50

Another thing to consider is the position of the bolt holes on the stovebolt engine where the stand head attaches. They're WAY too close together! Bolt a thick piece of 3/8" or 1/2" steel plate to the upper holes in the back of the block, about 2" wide and 16" long. Then bolt the stand arms to the ends of the 16" length. Do something similar with a couple of short pieces of metal at the bottom of the block. Extending the engine stand brackets makes the assembly much more stable, and it's easier to adjust the center of gravity so the engine rolls over safely. The longer the better on the legs- - - -the front casters should extend at least 6" beyond the front of the crankshaft- - - -8" is better!
Jerry

Here's the best use I've found for one of these smaller HF stands. Got it on sale for about $40, and converted it to a portable welding/cutting table. Everything is convertible so I can take the table off if want to use as stand or flip table to other side and use as a work table/engine stand combo (need the offset weight since not over casters). Store all clamps underneath and added hooks to side so everything is handy. Hope the link works,first try.

Converted HF Engine Stand

You can find my solution to carting around engines in the how-to section on my website. They work really well. I used inspiration from the wooden one posted here. Its all metal, mostly square tubing.

An engine stand for running up the engine can be seen in Nates Tuneup Guide in the same area. That one is simply the front end of a truck that was burned out. I use it to restore and run the engines when needed.

Deve, wouldn't seem to be a big deal to convert your cradle to an engine run stand with a few extensions and gussets here and there, and support for battery and radiator. Looking to hold/run these engines every now and then while I'm working on the frames/suspensions.

I made the start kart to handle all of the electricals and gas issues, so it wouldn't be all that hard to just add radiator capability. The carts are very stable. The only reason I was able to score the front end of a 1954 frame is the truck burned up in a fire. Otherwise I wouldn't advocate cutting up a perfectly good frame for an engine stand.

I heard somewhere of someone skipping the radiator in favor of the garden hose. I would love to hear the pros and cons on that one.

We have that same engine stand. For the money, it's not bad. I have a 350 V-8 on one and a 235 6 on another. The six was harder to get the bolts/brackets lined up, but worked pretty well. The last engine stand I bought was about 40 years ago at Lubber's in Wichita for about $90. It came with an assortment of bolts. The Harbor Freight ones do not.