The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun Kingpin lock stuck in my 51 3800.Help

I am trying to replace the kingpins in my 51 3800 pickup.I cleaned everything very well and the soaked everything in deep creep and let it sit a day or so.When I went to remove the kingpin locking bolt the nut twisted off.That really didn't bother me cause I figured it would drive out for sure - one less thing to fight ( and the new pins always have new locking bolts). WRONG !!!!!!I used my short BFH and a large punch and its not moving-at all. I even heated the lock only not the axle-let it cool -and went at it again , and again and again. It still has not moved. I have done several sets on kingpins in my time , but this is insane. Anyone have any ideas.
LMD.

Hy Imdangerous, I guess you could try drilling it or see if trying to move the kingpin will loosen it up, good luck with it.

Axle in or out of rig?
I think stuck stuff like that is worth pulling and having in a vice or drill press to wrestle with... Maybe it just helps me feel 'in control'...

In a press you might get it to budge.
In the truck your best bet is a big hammer, full size and stout punch for the pin, and an even bigger hammer and someone to hold it on the back side of the axle to add more mass to resist moving. Give it some good solid licks with the hammer and punch, small blows will only swell the pin and cause more trouble.

If no luck you may get by drilling but that can go bad quickly if not careful. Also don't expect to drill through the hardened king pin where it intersects the lock pin, and if you do catch it with the drill you will either dull or possibly break the bit.

Think too if the lock pin is that stuck you may need the axle out and in a press anyhow for the kingpins themselves.

Grigg

You may want to try one of those ball joint/U joint presses. I had the same problem with my 1 Ton and I had to drill them out. I am not really skilled at such things but I managed to do it. The last little bit I took out with a punch as it was really thin.

Like Grigg say's...
I found untill I fully supported the knuckle from below (in the vice) I didn't see much reward, but once it was solid the pins responded to the BFH rather well.

Caso,
are you talking about the kingpin?

Whichever he's talking about is true for both lock pin and the kingpin as well as anything else you're trying to drive out with a hammer.
Best results come when the part is well supported, set it on an anvil, or back it up with a sledge hammer, big hunk of steel... you get the idea.

Grigg

Looks like the axle is coming out. My 56 from years ago literally was two licks from a hammer and done.Guess I am paying dues this time.
Keep the ideas coming - I am open for anything that makes this easier.And thanks you guys for the info -
LMD

I would think that if you got it mostly drilled out, putting the kingpin in the press would push the remaining bits aside.

New idea. What about an air impact hammer(with a blunt punch),and my BFH on the other side??( its the kingpin lock). I got to thinking I really don't want to pull the axle if don't have to.But time will tell.
LMD

Depends on the air hammer and how hard it hits. If at first it won't move I'd guess that continuing will do more harm than good. Same as pecking away at it with a small hammer would do.

Grigg

Well it's out and ready to go to the machine shop in the morning. I figure it's better than digging out another piece of metal out of my hand lol.
Question about the axle After I removed it there were wedge shims like we used to use to set pinion angles on our race cars. Why would it be under the axle with the thinner edge toward the front? I figured it would be the other way. Did I miss something.
Lmd.

They're to set/adjust caster angle.

Ok but I figured they would be angled toward the back. I have put I as much as 12 degrees on my front engine rail. But it is track only.
Oh as luck would have it the lock pin on the passenger side dang near slide out by hand after two licks with a hammer. So I am gonna let the guys at the machine shop get the other out. I don't want to mess up my axle.

As you know setting the caster is done between the axle pads and the bottom of the leaf springs where they set on the pads. Nothing says the bottom of the leaf springs are or must be neutral, leaning forward, or leaning back. However the springs are doesn't matter because the axle is ultimately adjusted as necessary with the wedges to set the caster angle relative to the ground.

So I don't think you can predict which way the wedges should be installed without measuring the angles involved in each case. That said it might be that more often than not they're one way or another on a particular year, model, and outfitted truck but it all comes down to what is needed; it's a final fine adjustment after everything else is put together.

Grigg

I guess when it goes back in I need to check and see if the angle is still correct. The springs are still nice and appear to be in good shape.( not sagging, shackles dont appear to be really worn etc) That being said any one know what is factory spec for that?
LMD

The specs are in the shop manual, try this page
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0316.htm

On my truck, there is a little dowel on each wedge and it fits into a little hole in the axle. I would guess that if your shims are not like that, they have been replaced.

I was fortunate that the lock pins on my 57 came out nice with bfg motivation, however it did take heating the axle bosses red hot and most of the capacity of a 60 ton hydraulic press to get the pins out... the truck had been sitting the last 30+ years though.

I've owned this one 3 times over the last 30 + years. I guess I should have paid more attention when I converted over to disc brakes. Would have been better to have done it then all at one time. Oh Well if I keep at it that only leaves air conditioning- then I will keep it forever lol.
I should get everything back today. I guess I could take some pics of the caliper brackets that I made/ and make some paper patterns so I won't have to pull it back down when/ if I ever find a COE or LCF that I like. Gotta look at the good side mates.
LMD

Just got off the phone with the machine shop.I should have spent the 42.80$ and got it over with from the start.I was figuring a lot more than that. Nice folks - with one huge press.
LMD

Got everything back together other than hubs and brakes. Got kinda cold today. But I figured Santa did it so could I. Merry Christmas.

It's back together. All the slop is gone. I gotta get my steering wheel centered. It's always been off about a 1/8 th of a turn. I want it centered. I know that it's trivial but it bugs me.

Anybody got a magic trick to center the steering wheel. Let me know. My drag link is in great shape but it also has no adjustment.

Ok. I just got back from a test drive. Seems to be very nice. A great deal quieter and smoother. Also no vibration or crazy wheel motion. I set the toe in at just under a 1/4. Which is within spec.
Now I have to figure how to lengthen the drag link so i can get my steering wheel centered. I have thought about taking it to the machine shop have it cut into and have one half threaded RH. and then the other LH. Then use the factory 9/16 threaded adjustment sleeve.
Any one done this?

Don't you turn the wheel all the way in one direction, then count the revolutions all the way to the other stop, divide by two , turn the wheel back that far then remove the steering wheel, center it and replace.That sound easier than cutting and threading and other things.Or Maybe I am misunderstanding the question? Jerry

Centering the steering wheel is real simple.
Remove horn button, remove steering wheel, install it where you want it.

Grigg

Wow. For some reason I thought that there was only one way the wheel on the ad trucks would line up on the splines. I never payed much attention on the TF trucks that I actually put aftermarket steering wheels on.
So I can literally use a wheel puller and then reinstall where I want it? Dang. I've been trying to make this to hard.

Did you put the shims back in? A friend of mine did a lot of front end work and told me that laying the axle back about 1 to 1 1/2 degree made the od straight axle trucks drive better and follow the road better without wandering. That may be why the shims were their. I did this to several 48-49 F1's and they drove great.

Reset toe in to 1/16. Straight as a string . Nice even at 65MPH.Now I am sad to say that it will have a new home - In CO.He comes to pick it up in may.
LMD