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| | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | I'm not sure where best to post this question, so will depend on Stovebolt support to get it to the right area; thanks Stovebolt.
I have my repaired 41' gas tank back and will install this weekend. Are there any downsides to running all rubber fuel line versus steel/copper. It's obviously easier and faster to do rubber, but I don't want to create any issues by being a little lazy. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 649 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 649 | Don't be lazy, some of the new fuels eat rubber! | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,842 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,842 | Go steel all the way until it jumps over to the motor. Use some rubber for the bridge then back to steel to the carb.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | Had second thoughts myself and bought a tube bender yesterday. Steel it is. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 | My 49 is all steel. From the tank to fuel pump, from the pump to the fuel filter, from the filter to the carb. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,298 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,298 | My 49 is all steel. From the tank to fuel pump, from the pump to the fuel filter, from the filter to the carb. With hard lines from the tank all the way to the carb, I believe that you may be putting some undue stress on the fittings/hardline at the tank and/or the fuel pump due to cab movement (cab mounts) and engine movement (engine mounts). I am sure that it works just fine for you now, but it may be a problem later due to metal fatigue.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | should be a small hose directly under the tank ...link... allows for flexing of the cab. this is the spot where some add a canister filter I have one there and installed a second right at the carb when I was having flooding issues ...pic... ...pic... | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 | It doesn't seem to stress the lines nor fittings.
I changed the tank out from the stock bottom feed that had the short rubber line to a new top feed tank/sender.
The extended length of the new line and new rubber grommet allows for slight movement under the cab and holds it stable above in the cab.
Time will tell. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,298 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,298 | It doesn't seem to stress the lines nor fittings.
I changed the tank out from the stock bottom feed that had the short rubber line to a new top feed tank/sender.
The extended length of the new line and new rubber grommet allows for slight movement under the cab and holds it stable above in the cab.
Time will tell. If you drive on modern roads you will probably be OK. If you drive on the farm back 40, for which these trucks were designed, then you would likely have trouble. Lots of flex in these 'ole gals'.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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