The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Window glass size

I received all new glass from a supplier and stated to install. Front and corners went on pretty good, the back window was a different story. It looks like the glass is cut too small. I plan to go to local glass shop to get one cut to fit better. Question is there a rule of thumb for size of glass so that it fits the opening and rubber seal correctly - 1/4 inch or 1/8 inch smaller the opening in the cab? Any thought greatly appreciated.

I assume the glass is for a '53 as your name suggests?

By how much do you think the glass is too small,the rubber can compensate for small discrepancies.

The rubber for the rear of the cab is an 'H' section,you would need make a template from the aperature and subtract the thickness of the middle part of the rubber between the glass and body grooves. Allow slightly more than the rubber thickness to give yourself some leeway,you do not want it too tight as laminated glass isn't as forgiving as tempered.

Have you contacted the supplier to see what they suggest?

The only one that I have ever put in seemed too small until the bead was installed, than it seemed to be too big. They can sometimes be a bear to put in. I gave up and took it to a glass installation shop. I watched him install it. He scared the crap out me the way he beat on it with his hand to coax it into place. The kicker was that he had a huge wedding band and you could hear it hit the glass on every thump! He installed it perfectly.
Carl

Good point Carl,especially at the corners when the rubber trys to roll of the body.
Btw I've forgotten to put my wedding band back on a couple of times after work,arousing suspicion from my better half!

thanks for the response fellas, when the glass is setting on the bottom gasket the top of the glass is barely in the groove of the rubber at the top. I noticed that the glass itself is slightly curved at the peak of one of the long sides I assume this to be the top of the glass, and flat on the other long side. Or is this this wrong glass possibly mislabeled by seller.
I set the glass kind of in the middle of the rubber and I am waiting on the tool to install the locking bead rubber. I guess we will see.

Which tool are you waiting for? The best tool is a plastic "spoon", which is a flat plastic tool with a curved tip. They work great, I'm not sure where you would get one, maybe a glass installer could tell you where to get one. Anything metal will cut the rubber.

The top and bottom edges of the glass should be parallel with each other,are there no manufacturing marks on the glass?
As far as i'm aware the glass is basically rectangular with radiused corners,there is no peak that I know about.
From what you're saying you can sit the glass in the lower groove,do the sides interfere or will the glass slip through?
It's beginning to sound like you've got a wrong 'un....

Use a plastic or teflon stick (or dibber as we call them here) for the glass install,and from what I can gather you've already ordered a lock strip installation tool,both of which you'll see in use in the guide.
This might help. Rear AD glass installation guide.

I received my lock strip installation tool and install the lock strip on the corner windows, took about 30 minutes. I am gonna attempt to install lock strip on back window tomorrow and see if if tightens up any, if not I am going to assume I got the wrong piece of glass. I guess I will see if I can find some where local that still cuts auto glass.

I'm available but you might not like my travel costs.......

Joking apart,any good glass shop should be able to cut you a laminated rear glass,assuming you have a decent template.
I think Jim Carter sells glass templates if you need them.

Rear glass doesn't need to be laminated, only windshield glass does.

I installed lock strip on the rear window this morning, it tightened up quite a bit. never done it before so I have nothing to compare it to. I don't feel like it will fall out and I think one would really have to push on it really hard to knock it out.

Just for clarification, the Back Glass, doors and vents need to be safety glazed: meaning laminated, tempered or acrylic. I'd hate to see someone use plate glass and have it break or get in an accident.

Good point John,I imagine 46gmpu and most of us here would be assuming no-one would be daft enough to use standard plate but you never know....
Personally I'd steer away from acrylic,lexan or similar,unless it's a racing truck,even they scratch and fog over time.

I had my door glasses and rear glass made in green tinted tempered,it doesn't yellow or crack over time and assuming it's not abused is way stronger than laminate.
A 1/4" thick tempered glass will easily support my weight,i've tried it on an old door glass,try that with laminate....

Yes, what I meant is that the back and side glass should not be laminated windshield glass. This can cause issues if you need to escape quickly in an accident or if rescuers need to gain entry to your vehicle. The side and back windows should be automotive safety glass, jockbolter is right that I assumed noone would be daft enough to use plate glass.