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#98584 12/23/2006 10:21 PM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 163
R
'Bolter
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Hello!

I've been thinking about creating a Tech Tip about using an electic meter, covering the basics. I was wondering if any electrical gurus out there would like to collaborate on this project to ensure the information is as correct as possble.

All assistance would be acknowleged as a contributor or co-author?

Merry Christmas!

Randy B.


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#98585 12/23/2006 10:38 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
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Randy,
I am willing to help out, just let me know.

Fred


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
#98586 12/24/2006 8:10 PM
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Posts: 55
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If you Need a hand I can Help

#98587 12/24/2006 8:39 PM
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Basically, If you are measuring current (Amps) the meter must be in series with the circuit or in-line. Voltage is measured across a particular part of a circuit and you measure the voltage drop of that particular item. The other item is to start at the highest reading scale of the correct unit of measure (Amps, DC Volts, AC Volts, or resistance) and start working the way down unless meter is auto-ranging.

#98588 12/25/2006 4:40 PM
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For those of us who are somewhat "meter challenged", I look forward to the education!

#98589 12/25/2006 5:12 PM
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look at sears they have a good selection and all come with use books,,also one or two meters are amp readers with a line clamp...doc

#98590 01/12/2007 6:01 AM
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When you write your tech tip also mention polarity when connecting an analog meter, especially when reading current. You can ruin a meter movement in a hurry by connecting it backwards. Most of the newer digital meters are auto-ranging and don't care about polarity but they're more spendy.

#98591 01/12/2007 4:56 PM
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'Bolter
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After working with Fluke self-calibrating digital multi-meters in the military that go for over $400 a pop, I did some searching & found a unit at Radio Shack that had all of the features of a medium level Fluke for less than $60.
It's simple to use, easy to read, and had been dead on accurate for the 11 years I've had it. Might be a bit fancier than the average person needs, but it does the job quite well.

The only drag about multi-meters is reading AMPs & geting one that has the range you need.
Many meters I see have a 10A fuse or circut breaker, not much use if you're reading something pulling more than that (like say the charging Amperage on a 55A alternator). Most folks dont have need of a Ammeter, so they can be a bit hard to find when you wanna borrow one, and at the same time can be a bit spendy for something you might use twice.


1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "
1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber"
2007 Chevy Avalanche
2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk,
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I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things.
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#98592 01/12/2007 6:43 PM
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Rule 1: Using a multimeter, always recheck what position the switch is set, twice, then make your conection.


"It ain't a truck if you can't hose out the cab."
#98593 01/12/2007 8:35 PM
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Good point on the ammeter range being to low for most automotive applications. I wonder if a cheap amp meter from J.C.W. or (?) with a couple of alligator clips attached would be useful?
Just a thought.

#98594 01/12/2007 10:30 PM
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I've used a 60-0-60 ammeter with leads on it for yrs. Also have the two models of Snap-On ammeters you just lay over the wire, if I recall one is up to 300A. & the other is a 60A. Another tool I use a lot is a jumper with a screw terminal circuit breaker in it. That way I can change the breaker depending what I'm trouble shooting & connect it & go to where the component is to see what it does as the breaker cycles on & off. Doug

#98595 01/13/2007 12:15 AM
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Good idea. I'm thinkin' a breaker in line with the 60-0-60 would also be a good idea. You never know when you might hit something that's grounded solid.

#98596 01/13/2007 5:26 AM
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Trouble shooting with a ammeter with leads can be useful, but if you need a 60 Amp and a breaker to boot, you may want to consider trouble shooting with a fire extinguisher. smile smile grin
Just kidding.
I have one myself that I use, but I think it's only a 30 Amp. One of the leads is a solid copper wire with clip so that it can be positioned.

Another great trouble shooting tool is a tail light bulb with leads/clips soldered directly to it and wrapped with tape. What else do you do with a double element tail light bulb when one element has burned out??
Often times it's easier to see a light out of the corner of your eye than it is to turn your head and not be able to read a meter because of some light glare. Wrap a single wrap of plastic tape around the bulb to absorb any shock. They'll break fairly easy.


'67 GMC 3/4 292 4spd
#98597 01/14/2007 12:20 AM
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You can buy a 12v trouble lamp at any parts store and I agree they come in real handy. As for the breaker on the ammeter, you choose the size of the breaker according to your tollerance for smoking wire!!!

#98598 01/14/2007 3:27 AM
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Most multi's are fused so if you hook up wrong, blows the fuse. You will have to remove the back cover to replace. DON'T USE HIGHER RATED FUSE. As far as polaraty I always conect red to left or the up side with "HIGHEST" scale selected.


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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