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| | | | Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 28 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 28 | 1954-235 in my 1950 3100 pickup. I had the valves redone and I replaced all headbolts when I reinstalled the head. As I was turning the engine over by hand to start the rocker arm adjustments, I noticed a very slight leak on the drivers side just above the the center intake/exhast manifold area. It appears to be coming from the new head gasket. It is a Felpro replacement gasket. I did clean the block prior to installing the gasket and did a progressive torqueing on the head bolts. It is presently torqued to 90lbs. Any ideas? I really don't want to pull the head back off if I don't have to.
"If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space. Life is short, eat desert first."
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | Warm it up and retorque it, it should be OK. Retorque it again at about 1000 miles.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 28 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 28 | This probably sounds dumb, but why do you say it should be ok once it warms up?
Thanks for the feedback.
"If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space. Life is short, eat desert first."
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | It should be OK after a retorque.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 28 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 28 | I guess I should learn to read a little better, thanks.
So if I am understanding correctly, it sounds like it just may not have "swelled up" to seal yet and once the coolant and head are warmed up the retorque helps to seal it better?
"If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space. Life is short, eat desert first."
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | Old habit I guess. However I was taught to torque in increments. Like 10 foot pounds. Use the pattern. run to temp. And..re-torque in pattern. Then set valves and look for leaks. Works for lots of motors. Regardless of manufacture. I used the same process on Harley Davidson and AMC as well as Chevy and yes I must admit...Ford. Have not worked any MOPAR stuff for about 30 years. But I think I did them too.Did it on Honda motorcycles when I worked for them. Made the factory rep smile but got no complaints. If that leak is still there after a good re-torque then you might have a warp or a damaged head gasket. Or even a bit of dirt on that gasket. But don't jump to any thing until you have run to temp re-torqued. Some old blocks are "upset" a bit at the head bolt thread area. The torque setting is to provide some stretch in the bolt. Just some. The bolt is elastic and the torque value is set for this. The block is as well. Nature of the material. That is why the gasket has some "crush" built into it.
Last edited by Steve_H; 11/11/2013 7:41 PM.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | Oh yea, I use a bit of oil on the threads when I install them. Again old habit. I have been known to clean the bolt and block with a tap and die if the bolts don't screw in by hand real smooth. but only if needed.
Steve H
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