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Joined: Aug 2002
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J
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I am looking for the size of a plug for the capillary tube sending unit on a 1954 235 head. I am replacing my gauges. I am also looking for help on adjusting my rocker arms, I just put the head back on following a complete valve rebuild. Any help is gratly appreciated.


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I was going to suggest the same tech tip but DADS50 beat me to it. I used that tech tip on my 235 and all worked out fine.

Last edited by joe apple; 11/04/2013 1:51 AM.
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Love this forum! Thanks for such a quick response, DAD50. Now I can get the valves adjusted and the plug in place. Can't wait to get her back on the road.

She's a 1950 3100 refrigerator white with a 1954 235 and a muncie 21 4-speed.

Last edited by Jeff Mitchell; 11/04/2013 2:01 AM.

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I became very familiar with that thread size when I was adapting it for and electric sender. I also have a 54 235.

pre68dave helped me with the info.


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DADS50, I am curious, how did you end up adapting it for a sending unit?


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Originally Posted by DADS50
Ended up having to make an adapter


...pic...

Ran a stock die nut on a 3/8npt x 1/8npt pipe adapter.

No leaks........yet

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Ok anyone, I have a new question for the same thing. The capillary tube fits into the water jacket against a lip or flange. The nut tightens down to the flange on the capillary tube making the fitting water tight (I assume). Can I just run a 5/8" -18 1/2 " bolt down and use permatex on the bolt to make this a water tight fitting or plug? Actually, the head on the bolt won't torque tight down on the head as the 1/2" is too long, so it's really just threads I am guessing.

Last edited by Jeff Mitchell; 11/10/2013 1:39 AM.

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you can get a 5/8"-18 oil drain plug and a copper washer. ran mine like that for a couple of years. Or if you make the end of the bolt pretty much perfectly square with the axis of the bolt, (I.E. turn it on a lathe or very, very carefully on a grinder) then put a copper washer underneath between the bolt and the shoulder in the block. I wouldn't just put in a bolt as the ends of bolts aren't really too well finished. Either way would work well. I am pretty sure I wouldn't trust permatex in that situation, it was never intended to perform that kind of service.

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Thanks for the suggestion, sounds like it should work well.


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Hey brokenhead,
Thanks for the idea of the 5/8"-18 oil drain plug and copper washer-it works great.
Now I just have to figure out why I am getting a coolant leak by the head gasket on number 3 piston. Just filled the radiator up and was turning the engine by hand to do the valve adjustment and a very small leak started. I rechecked my head bolt torque and it is correct.It's coming out on the side by the manifold. Just finished a valve job and reinstalling everything, too. Challenges...oh well.


"If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space. Life is short, eat desert first."

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