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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 32 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 32 | So I plan on tearing down all the electrical in the dash and will eventually replace it with new wiring. So I have few questions...
What do I need to make note of when I'm tearing this down (pictures, certain steps I should take etc.)?
Are there any components that I need to hold on to? Maybe because the new wiring may not have certain connectors or something.
I want to reroute the wiring in the engine bay to where it looks cleaner. (i.e. not as many holes in the firewall.) What Kind of wiring kits do ya'll recommend in order to do that? I assume direct replacement kits will not allow for what I'm trying to achieve. But we all know what assume means.
And last, are there any questions that I'm not thinking of that I should be asking myself?
"Start living your dream now no matter what the sacrifice, and everything else will fall into place."
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | don't throw anything away until the new wiring is finished, then offer any useful bits in the swap
not sure how you'd use fewer than stock firewall holes, considering most of the wiring uses one main hole, and the manual choke, throttle, oil pressure tube and speedo cable use 2 others - maybe your's has had a lot of PO modifications made?
the original style repro harness is the easiest to install, all lays out like the factory diagram and with the proper colors and connectors for everything, a 'generic' harness might have the extra length wires you'd need to reroute things, if you're confidant of ability to install the end connectors and wrap a cable neatly
Bill | | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 32 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 32 | Well I've getting ideas of where I want to go with this build and seeing a clean firewall without a bunch of cables and wires come out of it looks really nice. But after thinking about it, those examples I looked at had pretty modern set-ups. So I guess there was no need for a throttle cable or manual choke or anything like that.
"Start living your dream now no matter what the sacrifice, and everything else will fall into place."
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | Where is the best place to buy a complete harness for a 1941 Chevy PU, 115 wheelbase? Any advice in getting all the electricals functional? | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | The best place to buy a harness depends on what you are doing to the truck. Is it stock? Engine swap? Power windows, high power stereo amp? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | Thanks for the reply. Keeping it stock, as near OEM as possible. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I have never used one but the stock harness from Classic Parts gets good reviews. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 165 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 165 | I used classic parts for my 30, labeled real well went in without issues
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 940 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 940 | don't throw anything away until the new wiring is finished x2! I have never used one but the stock harness from Classic Parts gets good reviews. Mine was the $150 6v+Gen harness from Classic Parts. Their instructions make it a breeze! | | |
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