The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop '58 apache 3200 long box need to box the frame?

I have a '58 chevy apache 3200 long box step side. The frame is almost bare, and I nearly ready to paint. I wanted some input as to what others have done, or suggest, as far as boxing the frame of the truck. I plan to put a 350 or 383 stroker in this truck with a 3.73 rear and 4 or 5 speed tranny. It's not going to be a drag strip truck, but I won't some ponies behind it! Now is the time to do any mods if wanted/needed. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!

No need to box the frame, it's plenty strong as is. All you'll really need are the proper motor mounts, fan shroud, and a V8 bellhousing, provided your truck wasn't a factory V8 to begin with.

A ladder frame from the 50's is meant to flex. Boxing will stiffen and may cause cracks. I believe 58-59 are a little thicker channel than earlier. Hot Rods, with different suspension than yours, and modern fully redesigned frames are boxed. There are boxed and non boxed opinions all over the place. Bottom line, it will handle your drivetrain. Also, special care must be taken when welding on those frames as is described in the Maintenance manual. On a side note , I have put Big blocks and Small blocks in TF trucks, no problems yet. With the added speed/acceleration you will tend to drive more squirley, you need power steering and power brakes w/disc in front.

If you decide to box you can get front boxing plates from Speedway and rear plates from No Limit Engineering. There may be other sources, but I know those.

That saves you from cutting plates for the curve over the axle and the smaller curves around front crossmember. The rest of the frame is pretty straight and you can use flat plate and if you have to cut it will be more or less straight lines. I think in the middle it may be 6 inches and with a standard size plate you may only cut to length.

Doc Frohmader at webrodder.com has some interesting articles on boxing the front of his Task Force.

I am putting in IFS and 4-link and the boxing is part of the install.

I am not familiar with any welding concerns on these frames and would like to hear more info on that. I have only plasma cut and tacked in a C-notch for my gas tank filler and it appeared to be like any other mild steel that I have welded.

The long box is a thicker cross section frame than the short box version, it is the same thickness used on the 3/4 ton as well.
Maybe even the 1 ton not sure there.
Just remember what the "TOTAL FACTORY STOCK" Cameo went for at auction with a bent roof for 140,000. I think people that are looking for these trucks are sick and tired of the modified junk out there. Box it and ruin it forever. If you need a boxed frame get some tube material and build a frame, just as much work as boxing the original.

You'll be sorely disappointed (or overpaying on everything) if you're using the Lambrecht auction as a price guide. Those prices were highly inflated and not a guide of real value. You can't the selling price of a truck with nearly no miles and no owner other than a dealer that was sold at a highly publicized auction to determine the real value of a restored truck in the 'real world'.

He asked for opinions on whether the frame should be boxed, not if you are for or against modifying old trucks. If you're against modifying old trucks, maybe you shouldn't be commenting on threads in The Hipo Shop.

We boxed some of the frame on my buddy's '51 shortbed, used 84-ish Vette rear, a Speedway kit on the front, a T-bird rack. It handles like its on rails, and its a daily driver(he lives on a gravel road too). He loves it, except everywhere he goes folks try to buy it.

The 55-59 GMC maintenance manual has a section in it about welding the frame. Do's and don'ts of frame repair. I don't know if the 55-59 Chevy MM has that or not.

if you box the frame when you weld it. weld about 3-4"at a time and weld some at the front then at the rear then in the middle. take your time and let it cool between welds. that way you are less likley to warp the frame

No reason to box with what you are doing so far. I put a BBC in a TF and used smaller "C" channel about 10" long as a reinforcing backer at the engine cross member mounting tube to frame locations. Fitted inside stock frame "C". Not welded. Spreads the load. Big washer. Don't know if I needed it or not.