The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Master cylinder upgrade

So I got this dual master cylinder upgrade bracket in the mail today from Brothers. The diagram shows some completely non-stock pedal and has NO information about the clutch pedal that is right beside the brake pedal. Has anyone done this upgrade and can shed some light on how this all goes together? Maybe this bracket is used TOGETHER with the original bracket in some way? Always exciting learning something new. LOL!

Is this the bracket you are referring too? If so, it mounts where the original MC mounted. It does not need a different
brake pedal and will not interfere with your existing clutch pedal.


http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DMC5954

So basically it attaches to the mount ahead of the brake/clutch pedal mounting? The instructions are vague. All they had to do was include a pic of the product mounted where it belongs. Thanks a lot! That's the one alright!

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They have DIY articles on a similar one on their website. May be close enough to give some insight.

Mine was a direct bolt on in the place of the original MC. Does not affect the pedals. [URL=http://s792.photobucket.com/user/coffeemitch/media/1952%20Suburban/photo_zpsdf8983eb.jpg.html

Dads50- that's a nice bit of work on yours!

Here is my installation (with power booster).

Any one have advice on the same thing for a 42 half ton chevy pu?

David, the reason I didn't go with the power booster as bad as I wanted to was twofold... Brothers tech told me that I would have two problems.. 1) With a 3 speed w/overdrive, the linkages would be in the way, and 2) The original transmission crossmember would have to be cut out a bit to accommodate the booster. I noticed you have a 4 speed with torque tube rearend, so you wouldn't have these problems. My plan is to go without the booster to see how manageable the disc brakes are without it first. Thanks for the pics!

Dads50.. you had me a bit worried that you cut your original brake/clutch bracket on purpose to accommodate the Brothers bracket for the dual MC. Its not that I have any problem doing that, but you don't have to. It bolts right up and the fitment is perfect by just bolting one bracket to the other and using the included spacer. Its a very nice idea and something I may still do.... cutting the original bracket and welding the new bracket so they are one, but its not necessary. Just looks more original the way you did it.

I am still awaiting the other parts, the MC and the proportioning valve, but my hope is that it all comes complete. My thing is, I want stainless brake lines thruout. May have some work to do, and very nicely, maybe need to purchase an air tool for making the proper flaring on stainless. Its all so exciting!!

Someone previous had modified the original bracket.
I should of noted that, good eye

The 50 was drum/drum split when I got it back

I went disc/drum manual master POL kit

I did have to modify the prop bracket as show in one of the pics.

Looks great. How does the brake system feel when you stomp on it? are you pretty happy with the way the system works? Would you be happier with the power booster? How much happier? LOL!

I really appreciate your input!

I know they use to sell modified original master cylinder brackets that allowed a dual master cylinder to bolt right in the original location. I actually installed one of these back in the 1990's on a 1/2 ton 52 Chevy..... About the only figuring to it was the length of the push rod, which is adjustable anyway. Allowed the use of the stock pedals....
Luckily I made a pattern off it to modify my bracket when I'm ready.....
John

These days they even have a hinged stainless steel rectangular door that makes it much nicer to check the brake fluid. I was very impressed with the quality. A bit pricey, but make practical sense.

The Manual master works great on my truck
I cant compare with power because I have not used one on a AD truck.

At the time I upgraded I was not prepared to relocate the crossmember.

Im pretty sure the power booster is better, but Im very happy with the way my truck stops now.

I did have to buy new rims, this kit did not clear 15 inch rims.

Deve, I have a regular 3 on the tree transmission, no OD. So, I sure hope the linkages work out ok with no interference...haven't got to that point yet, but have to assume this would be the most common setup to design the system to fit/work with. I did have to modify the original cross member, by creating a few notches so that the MC cleared. To avoid cutting too deeply into the cross member, I made a series of "step" notches, then boxed them out. I relocated the proportioning valve to the frame as can be seen.

I hope too. Cause they told me any 3 speed with linkages would be a problem. Please let me know what you run across in this. What I love about this site is we share lots of great information that makes it much easier to document these processes. I cant imagine how you would fix the problem with the linkages, so I just went without the power booster on this project. The next one I will make sure I put a T-5 out of an S10 so that its 4 speed centered with no linkage issues. Keep us posted!

I finally had a chance to check clearance between power booster and transmission shift linkages. No way the booster will interfere as the booster will be well behind the transmission linkages. The booster is adjacent to the transmission tail shaft. Whew!

Great! I would love to see pics of that install.