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I'm wanting to install A/C in my 1954 3100 and want to utilize an Electric Fan Thermal Switch. My situation is 1) there is only one threaded port and the Temp gauge is using it, 2) The electric fan shroud I'm using covers the entire core of the radiator with less than 3/4" clearance from core. What to do?

I've seen reference to a screw in tee fitting but can not find one. I have heard of (bear with me) slipping the probe into the stream of the upper radiator hose connection. I think this is accomplished by bending the probe feed to a horseshoe bend, then slipping the rad hose over that and clamp the connection as normal. Oh, I've seen reference to a "clamp on" how does that work and look like?

Thanks
Steve

There is one that connects to the electric temp gauge.

I have the best luck!!!!!!! I just purchased and installed a set of gauges and of course opted for the mechanical Temp gauge.

I'm considering replacing my water pump with one that has a tapped port on top. Another thought is plumbing an 1/2" tee from my only port on the intake and connecting the Temp gauge and electric fan sensor to it.

I'm still open to ideas.


Thanks

PS Sorry, I just realized I didn't mention the motor is a 283.

If your 283 is a 1969 and up it has a pipe port on either side of the block. Or if you have a modern aluminum intake, there are ports on it. Next best is not water pump, it is the thermostat housing port you mentioned. the other ideas: inside of hose and a piece of exhaust pipe spliced into hose with a bung are last resort and too much risk/leaks, etc. I believe the "T" idea does not provide the intimate contact with "hot" that is required. The "T" will act like a heat sink. Not too many do it that way. Don't even know if the probe will be too long for a brass "T"? Some have put them in the radiator drain hole! BTW, IMO: If you ever do this again, get an electric gauge. No reason to get a mechanical, they make electric that look like orig or real close or you can put a gauge face decal on it. It's just that a wire is much less worry and installation/routing trouble. You are using a relay for the fan, right? Can't you install the A/C and see if your truck overheats first? 5-6 fan blade swap, no other components on the engine, power steering, etc? Florida ain't Arizona. Largo? You're almost on a freekin Island.

The fan sensor I bought has a probe you insert right thru the radiator fins near the rad/return hose the control box is mounted nearby and is adjustable to desired temp U want the fans to come on.

Great feedback...
Bartamos: the 283 block decodes as a 1967 C10/K10, the heads decode as 1957 Corvette Power Pak heads, the modern aluminum intake I installed is a Summit Racing model which only has a heater hose port and temp port. Yes, I plan on using a fan relay and using a fan sensor of some style. I already know a I have an overheating problem. Sitting still, idling for 15 or more minutes will cause it to overheat. The radiator is one I purchased from Classic Parts of America 7 years ago. It is an all aluminum 2 core with 1" tubes referred too as an desert cooler. I believe it was built by US Radiator. My mechanical fan is a 17", 5 blade fan and is installed 1" from radiator core and looks just like a 1957 Corvette model. I think my cooling problem is 1) fan is not vertically centered to the radiator core 2) Not having an appropriate shroud. US Radiator has assured me that their SHP-16 fan/shroud assembly will take care of my problem and A/C. So, I will be removing my mechanical fan. The timing is set at factory spec. I'm currently using a hotrod style shroud which I think is next to useless. Moving say 30mph or more any day, any speed (well, I have not been over 80mph) is no problem.
Why wouldn't the water pump be a good choice?
How is the radiator drain hole used? Isn't it an 1/4" fitting.

Gazim: I am aware of that style of sensor, however the electric fan and shroud Spal is building for me covers the entire core surface. The sensor would have to be inserted from the "front" of the radiator. I have read somewhere this style of probe should be inserted from motor side of radiator. My preference is to use an adjustable sensor.

Thanks

There is a lot of chatter on the internet suggesting how to solve your problem. The idea of putting in radiator drain was what some mentioned. NOT acceptable. Must be on the engine. As you are talking to the radiator people and the Fan people, it would seem that one of them would have given you the best place, in your case ,to put the switch, which is what they call the fan temp sensor. As you may know, A pull fan mount is best. If you use a push mount you can install it outside of the A/C condenser in front of Rad (which cools the condenser for better performance of A/C) and keep the mechanical fan. This is also a good option. A "switch" can be installed in the liquid line of the A/C to turn on the fan when A/C is on. or fan can come on with ignition switch or a temp switch as you are speaking of. The idea is to co ordinate what the coolant temp sensor is sensing with what the fan switch temp sensor is sensing. If they are sensing at different/wrong/cooler or hotter places, the fan will not be coming on and turning off at the correct time relative to engine temp. It will be operating by what it sees as correct turn on turn off temps but that may not be what the engine needs. It "boils" down, in my opinion, that if you can fit the switch into a thermostat neck, that is your best bet. That's if you don't want to drill and tap the intake. Could you put the heater on neck and sensor in manifold? Remember crazy ideas lead to good ideas soooo...Use the manifold port for fan in summer and for heater in winter. (don't like "T's") Two other points: I don't know if you have open or closed system but I do not believe that engine should be getting hot. You have got a problem with thermostat range , radiator cap pressure or a water flow problem or shroud design and location. That radiator should cool it 'no sweat" without A/C. You should fix that before moving on. YOU DO have something screwed up. Point 2. You may find that a controller is necessary to obtain the best result.
Shrouds should cover entire rad, fan blades about half way into it maximum with about 3/4" minimum stick in. The shroud is very important. Your 3/4 distance from fan blades to rad is too close to get the proper flow and for a shroud to "gather" air from the edges of rad. Also the shroud should be fairly tight to O.D. of fan. At less than 3/4, there is no shroud geometry that would obtain full flow. Move rad forward, mount electric outside of condenser, keep mechanical fan, find shroud that meets the design requirements.

easiest solution, find a thermostat housing that has a threaded port for a temp sensor, they're available for the SBC

Bill

and that's the long and short of it..

http://prosportgauges.com/images/view.aspx?productId=14&index=2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-V8-Chrome-Thermostat-Housing-w-Temp-Port-SBC-BBC-/330421758551
Cast type with flat gasket seals better than fancy chrome w/O-ring
O'Reilly's website search 84842

Use one of these, it will give you a couple extra ports to mount
things.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Meziere/680/WN0028U/10002/-1

WOW!!!!! So many choices... My thanks to each of you for all your thoughts and insight.

Yesterday, I ran with the Thermostat housing idea and spent a couple of hours in Ebay. Found a configuration I liked, gathered specific applications then went to NAPA online, searched their applications and BINGO.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Water-Outlet/_/R-BK_6051095_0403485888

Thanks again
Steve