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#969779 09/06/2013 3:55 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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I bought a 47 3600 and a 47 or 48 3100 5 window wondering what size motor and transmission combo I can put in with minimal modification. Looking to put in a 350 at least.
Will a 1970-90's chevy or Cadillac engine work? Or will any make 350 and transmission combo will work?
Thank you.

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Shop Shark
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Any small block is the easiest because there are plentiful suppliers of needed parts to install, both drivetrain and chassis. It only takes time and money.


Drew
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Gas Pumper
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The biggest problem in installing a V8 in an AD is the steering column will need to be replaced. There is a dual articulating U-Joint system used to bypass the frame and give the clearance needed to make it work. I HEAR that a company called IDIDIT corp has all the parts needed to make this work and should know exactly what you need. www.ididitinc.com



Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
In the Stovebolt Gallery
The Think Tank
More info and tips at Deve's Technet
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'Bolter
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The easiest would be a later 235 or 261, virtual bolt in. Any V8 is going to require modifications to the frame and steering system in an AD truck. Of the available 350s, the Chevrolet would be the easiest and lowest cost. To get around the steering box issue, there's a few ways to do it. One would be to relocate/replace the box with a later or smaller box, and use a late model/aftermarket steering column. Another, if you want to keep the stock box, is to relocate the box using a spacer to offset it to the left approximately 2 to 2 1/2 inches.
Due to the extra width, a Cadillac engine, as well as the Oldsmobile and Plymouth 350s would not be desirable in an AD chassis, a Buick 350 might work.


Bill Burmeister
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks for the info.

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Wrench Fetcher
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I found a 216 1950 stobe bolt supposedly from a delivery van. Is $100.00 a good price for it?

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'Bolter
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216 is a weak engine. Not much horse power and Babbitt rod bearings. Unless you must have a "correct" restoration truck I would pass on it. Find a 235 much better engine with more power and pressurized rod bearings. 55-62 will all fit and work with very few issues. Find one with a truck front mount and it will fit nice. Not much more money and a lot more engine.


Steve H
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Steve thank you.

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Sir Searchalot
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I always vote for a V8. I'm sure there is plenty of info to study on how to do that. Members here have done it and can explain the procedure. But they are right about it being more work than a 235/261. Custom Classic Truck and Classic Truck magazines have covered this swap many times. Read their archives. You can use original drive train or modern.

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Renaissance Man
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I have a 1953 235 with powerglide engine (that is what it is called) with a 1956 848 head (higher compression). This motor was the first one with full pressure oil system, hydraulic lifters, aluminum pistons, and insert rod bearings. It has a 1966 Saginaw 3 speed and a 12 bolt 3.73 rear end. This all went together without any major modifications. It has plenty of power and speed to be dangerous. Unless you plan on some serious modification to the front suspension and add disc brakes, I would not recommend going with a V8.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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yes $100 would be a good price for it if it is not broken in some way. But probably wouldn't be what you are looking for. Unless you want to convert to full pressure oiling, and insert bearings. Which isn't really expensive and quite simple. you can do several things to the 216 to make is a respectable runner. However it will cost more (around $500 is what I spent on the conversion portion, drilling the crank, half of which cost was shipping, and getting the rods machined for inserts) than pretty much any other engine, but it keeps the original engine in my truck. And keep in mind these trucks aren't really too stable at speeds over about 65, with marginal at best brakes, so unless you are hauling heavy loads or towing, a lot of power doesn't really do much good. Unless of course you really want your truck upside down in a ditch, or 3 feet up into a semi trailer you don't need more power than will get you there. If you want to go faster you will be spending a lot of money (or you should be) on brake and suspension upgrades as mentioned above. These are old antique vehicles and need to be treated as such.

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Gas Pumper
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Yes, if you add a V8, you are changing the steering system, probably adding IFS, and disc brakes. Very very expensive. I just watched an AD last Wednesday hammer for $32,000 with a 261 engine and no mods, just a nice clean frame up resto. Its our time as far as AD's go, but going overboard really doesn't bring any more money. In fact, the resto mods can bring less. Another AD the same day with a 350 went for $18,500. Hated to see that. People aren't buying all the hard work and money you put in. Its not what makes sense to you, it what makes sense to the buyer. Once you chop the frame up to add IFS and V8 mounts, you took away most of the trucks character. Not what I think, the way it just IS.


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
In the Stovebolt Gallery
The Think Tank
More info and tips at Deve's Technet
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'Bolter
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You don't "need" to change the steering, add ifs, and disk brakes to do a V8 swap, though most folks do that. Rebuilt to stock specs, or perhaps mildly upgraded with bolt on improvements such as gas shocks, sway bars, and a steering stabilizer, these trucks handle and stop much better than most give them credit for.


Bill Burmeister
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Originally Posted by LONGBOX55
You don't "need" to change the steering, add ifs, and disk brakes to do a V8 swap, though most folks do that. Rebuilt to stock specs, or perhaps mildly upgraded with bolt on improvements such as gas shocks, sway bars, and a steering stabilizer, these trucks handle and stop much better than most give them credit for.
This is true if you leave a lot of space between you and the vehicle in front of you and keep your speed under 65. Some guys are tempted to make a race truck on the cheap. Bad medicine.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Shop Shark
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Cheaps not good and goods not cheap.


I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by 52Carl
This is true if you leave a lot of space between you and the vehicle in front of you.
That would even apply with the IFS and disk brake upgrades.


Bill Burmeister
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I have a gnarly motor but I put gnarly brakes to match. If you drive fast you need to stop fast. I did all my suspension and brakes around my motor. When all was in working order I shoved the monster under the hood. Fast is cool but only if you're alive to enjoy it. Plus my dad would've killed me if a crash didn't. You can't put a $ above your life or the life of others. Do it right.


I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
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'Bolter
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I'll agree 100% with doing it right. Regardless of what engine is going in, it still has to stop and steer safely. Baring a full race engine, the stock steering, suspension, and brakes will be just fine with a hopped up 6 or even an average 350.


Bill Burmeister
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Originally Posted by LONGBOX55
[quote=52Carl]
This is true if you leave a lot of space between you and the vehicle in front of you.
That would even apply with the IFS and disk brake upgrades. [/quote
I can't disagree with that Bill. After all, we're talking about pickup trucks with no weight in the back.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Shop Shark
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4 wheel lock ups are exciting. Had to do that before. Watch for the rear end swinging around.


I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
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Thank you!


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