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#964587 08/17/2013 10:43 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Just picked up project redheaded stepchild from my friends house.he installed the 3.73 gears in it.anyways this is only the 2nd time I drove it since I got it and the longest im drove it. I gotta say I'm not use to driving the old vehicles. Going down the interstate I had to keep turning the steering wheel back and forth to keep it straight plus I had to turn the a mile before the the wheels turned lol.the breaks we're just as bad you better start stopping a ways back or you are going thru whatever is in front of you.now the engine is a 2004 350 vortec from a boat.The transmission is a turbo 350 with as everyone knows is a 3 spd no over drive now remember I just got gears installed. going down the interstate it feels like I should have 2 more gears. I bet if the truck with a 4 speed I could lift the front wheels lol.the truck was moaning and groaning like a torque monster. I do have one simple question the trans has B&M ratchet shifter which I always manually shift it.now here's my question is it bad to manually shift the transmission? And here is the order of it.
P .N. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/manually-shifting-236072.html#post1705954 . 3. 2. 1 now where is [D]rive at and can I put it in drive if it has it or do I have to continue to manually shift it?

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'Bolter
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Do you know what sort of work or parts have been put into the trans? The shifter itself has little to do with whether you have to manually shift it or not, that's a function of the valve body. If it still has a stock type valve body, put in "3" (Drive) and you'll be fine. If it has had a manual valve body installed, then you'll have to manually shift it.


Bill Burmeister
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I have no idea sir what's done to my trans or nattwthe truck for that matter. the previous owner didn't even tell me about the Vortec 350

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'Bolter
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I see. It won't hurt anything to shift it manually, but you may try seeing it does still shift automatically. Put in "3" and see if it will shift through the gears normally.
However, before you take it out on the highway again, you might look into the steering and brakes, see what's going on there. The steering could simply be an adjustment issue, just based on the description. I don't know if you've ever adjusted a Saginaw type steering box before (I'm assuming it still has the manual steering box), but here's a quick rundown of how to do it. On the side of the box, opposite of the pitman arm, you'll see a slotted screw with a jam nut. Take the nut loose, then turn the screw in until the play is almost completely gone. You don't want to go too tight, there should be a very slight amount of play. Hold the screw and tighten the nut. The wheels should be pointed straight ahead when you do this. If there isn't any play in the box, then you'll need to check for worn steering parts, the pitman arm and idler arm are the two main culprits for what you're feeling.
Same deal with the brakes, check for worn linings, leaking cylinders, proper adjustment.
Got to make 'em stop and steer before you make 'em go fast! wink


Bill Burmeister
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Ill look into adjusting the steering today.I figured it was that way because it's almost 50 years old.

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Longbox are you referring to a worm gear adjustment for the steering is that for a different gear box?


I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
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'Bolter
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No, I'm talking about the lash adjustment for the sector gear.


Bill Burmeister
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Okey dokey. Thanks. My brother a v8 shoved in an 88 s-10 with sloppy steering and my brother said he messed with the worm gear to get the play out. I was just curious is all.

Last edited by Hollow65; 08/18/2013 11:30 AM.

I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
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With the conveniences of modern vehicles, it can be a bit shocking, to jump in a 50 year old truck, when we are accustomed to the operation a newer vehicle. Armstrong steering, manual brakes, low gearing, road noise and 2-55 air, are part of the proposition.

As with any manual or automatic transmission, in final drive, the vehicle is turning 1-to-1. An automatic overdrive or manual overdrive, will make a difference, but may not be enough, depending on the rear gear ratio and the driver's expectations.

We have a relatively simple focus:

If it is broken, repair it.
If it is missing, replace it.
If it doesn't belong, remove it.

We then focus on:

Start.
Steer.
Stop.

When the smoke clears, if the budget is intact and the resources are still available, we focus on convenience upgrades, performance upgrades & cosmetics.

Good luck with your project.

Last edited by 4-5-6 Chevy Trucks; 09/06/2013 9:10 AM.
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Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
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Tony,
I like your philosophy. Simple and direct. Even I can understand, relate and appreciate.
HB


~ HB
1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery
1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban
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Maybe it should be...
Stop
Steer
Start
ohwell


In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

Inspired to be different. Different in a way of my own, not in a way that others strive.
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Start, steer, stop or stop, steer, start, it doesn't matter the order, as long as all three are addressed, prior to streeting the truck.

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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John, in that case, you need to include 'shift', which would address the original question here grin

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
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Originally Posted by red58
John, in that case, you need to include 'shift', which would address the original question here grin

Bill

And thus this thread has now gone full circle thumbs_up


Moderated by  Hambone, Woogeroo 

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