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#959346 07/27/2013 5:17 PM
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Picked up my 235 today that was built buy Troy Robinson of Old Inline Power Company. Motor is in but I have two issues to contend with. Truck is a 1950 3100, 235, Offy intake with dual webber carb setup from Tom Langdon and william headers. First i need to move the driver side fender support rod, can someone get me a picture of what they did as currently it needs to go through the back carburetor? and Second the top shifter control lever wont move as the offy intake is in its way. What is my solution for this? What part do I purchase or how do I modify this. Can someone post me a picture of a solution? My Picture of the issue is is linked below. Thanks Steve


http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/s...ruck/Linkageissue_1_zps283a65ff.jpg.html

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Here are pictures of the problem linkage, template and modified part, we will see if it all works as planed!

http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/s...iftlinkage4_zpsf2271cfc.jpg.html?filters[user]=134854917&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/s...iftlinkage1_zps2984fab9.jpg.html?filters[user]=134854917&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1

http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/s...iftlinkage3_zps1e23de24.jpg.html?filters[user]=134854917&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=2

http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/s...iftlinkage2_zpscded2a0d.jpg.html?filters[user]=134854917&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=4

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So you shortened the original arm, redrilled and added a bung for support?
Nicely done.
At one time I had a shifter box with the upper arm bent in a soft Z shape to fit an Offy manifold. It's shape didn't effect
the shifting rod motion at all.
Found an old pic showing the bend.

[IMG]http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1061/3611363/16876743/380000804.jpg[/IMG]

Last edited by DrewP; 08/01/2013 8:59 AM.

Drew
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Thanks, Actually we cut out 5/8", welded and did a little grinding. Hoping to get it and the rest of the odds and ends put back together tonight and tomorrow. Looking forward to hearing it come back to life.




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Nice engine. Some of that intake set up looks like Tom Langdon's
stuff. ??


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Yep, it all came from Tom.

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Well all is good needed to bend the rod a bit at the bottom. Every thing clears and shifts real well.

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I obtained a big box of Chevy shifter boxes from a guy and one of them had equal length shifter arms (the length of the shorter lower arm). If someone else has to deal with what you had to do, maybe they could scrounge the junkyards for one like I lucked into. Maybe it goes to a car of that era. (The guy I bought these parts from had a lot of car parts mixed in.) I would offer mine up but I plan on using it to address an issue with a Saginaw transmission shifter arm/AD shifter box arm issue. First and reverse shifts do not currently need much movement of the column shifter to go into gear. It works, I just want the throw of the column shifter to be the same for first/reverse as it is for second/third. I think a shorter shifter box arm will accomplish this. Smoloney, after you shortened the arm, did you notice any difference in the distance the column shifter moves when you shift into first or reverse? Is it now different than the distance that you have to move it into second and third? That would be good information for me before I take my truck all apart.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Have not driven yet but sitting still and shifting everything seems to be fine, we adjusted the block that attaches the rod to the linkage. Key is in this adjustment to have both linkages level with each other in neutral. It wont work if they aren't level. You will need to have the shift box open to see and adjust this. Shifting arm distance seems to be the same r/1 and 2/3. Hope this helps. steve


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