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Joined: Aug 2010
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I've read that this is the best way to adjust these lifters so you don't get rocker clatter yet you don't over-tighten them, but I don't see how you can do this on these engines because you can't keep a wrench or flat blade screwdriver on them with the rockers going up and down so quickly. Am I missing something here?

I had one old timer show me how to adjust them by bringing each valve up to TDC, taking the slack out of it's rocker arm, and then tightening it 1 1/2 turns. Problem is after doing this several rockers still click. Adjusting the rockers while the engine is running seems like a lot better way to go if I could figure out how to keep a screwdriver and wrench on them.

Joined: Jul 2013
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'Bolter
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On other engines that have a rocker stud with just an adjusting nut, this can be done a lot easier. But trying to adjust a rocker shaft style rocker like the Stovebolt would be like trying to thread a sewing machine with it running. Hydraulic lifters are designed to have a predetermined amount of pre-load to be considered "in adjustment". You mentioned having several that still click after adjustment, double check to make sure there isn't excessive wear on the rocker pads or worn valve tips that could be causing adjustment issues.


We cannot solve our problems today using the same thinking we used when we created them!

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The lifters don't happen to be NEW ones? I put a set in my 52 three years ago and they ticked after cold start for a month before they stopped ticking.It didn't matter if I had them adjusted 1 or 1& 1/2 turns the new hyds. are junk.The best thing to do is take the old ones one at a time and take them apart and clean them.


Pete

Last edited by Pete52; 08/02/2013 7:44 AM.
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'Bolter
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Isn't 1 1/2 turns too much? I always set mine 1/2 turn after the slack was out. Never had any issues.

Joined: Jan 2001
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'Bolter
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Hydraulic lifters are not that picky where they are set. GM set them at 1 1/2 turns. That is where I have been setting them for 40 years.


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'Bolter
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Back in the early sixties we used to place a half inch drive socket over the adjusting nut and then slide the screwdriver into the open end of the socket to get some stability while you turn the adjusting screw.

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'Bolter
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There is no reason to adjust any style of lifter with the engine running. Adjusting hydraulics are just easier with the stud style (small block)rocker with it running.


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I can tell everyone is under 65 that responded. I (age 76) have the tool for adjusting the adjuster/lock nut style rockers and it childs play. Tool has a double bend with a 5/8 box on the end. Riveted to it is a spring loaded flat screwdriver shaft with a knurled knob on top. Drop box end over set nut, turn screwdriver till blade drops in adjuster---spring holds it there, loosend set nut and turn knurled knob to adjust. On some other tools the spring held the blade away from the slot but since the box end held it centered you just pushed the shaft down and turned till blade dropped into slot.


Evan
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Renaissance Man
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Hey young man (76 is the NEW 70), can you post a pick of that tool?
Carl (age 55 1/2)


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Hey Coilover, I'm only 64 and been using the tool you mentioned since 1966. Works great.


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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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So that tool is so you can adjust the valve lash on hydraulic lifter engines with the engine running, right?

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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I have never adjusted hydraulic lifters.

I no longer adjust mechanical lifters on 216/235/261 engines with the engine running, but that style tool would have been helpful.

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'Bolter
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Even(coil over) I'm 63 I don't have one of them tools, but I know what your talking about.


Brian
1955.2 3100 Truck
The older I get the more dangerous I am!!!!!
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'Bolter
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Funny stuff about adjusting rockers while running. I was taught to adjust solid rockers while running...about 1962. Tricks are to set idle way down. As slow as you can. Normal operating temp. Use a 5/8 box wrench and a screw driver. And keep as limp and light touch as you can. Intakes, to no noise at all. Just. Exhaust, to just can hear a light tick.
Hydraulics, Normal operating temp. Adjust until quiet and 1/2 turn more.
Cold engine, use the feeler gauge and adjust each cylinder at top dead center.
The tech. tip about #1 at top dead center and #6 at top dead center is so much easier. No hot engine and no oil all over the place. All are bit of work and all get the job done. But hey you don't need to develop "the touch" or any burns with the tech. tip. Now that tool would have changed every thing. smile


Steve H

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