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Can you use a glass lens with the blue dot on a led tail light? 52-3100 truck.

Glass lens will be fine, however, the blue dot will only serve to block the light from the leds. In addition, purple/pink lighting effect of the blue dots will not work at all, as the lighting from the leds will be red light, not white. Unless you're building a custom led panel to accommodate a blue dot, best choice would be a plain lens.

I am in the process of modifying the stop light socket to accept an 1157 bulb (dual element). I then plan on wiring the two wires together so both elements light up when you step on the brakes. I will keep the running light bulb as is. Has anyone out there tried this modification? The stock setup just isn't bright enough in the sun, especially with the blue dot lens.

sounds like it might work, but if you're using an 1157 you must be 12V? why not just use an 1156 [I think it is], which is a single element bulb as bright as the brighter element on the 1157?

Bill

If you wire both wires together, the light will always be bright when the running lights are on. Stepping on the brake pedal will make no difference.

Mark, that was my 1st thought, but he's talking about using a dual filament bulb in one position of the 2 bulb system, running lights separate

Bill

A plastic lens will pass more light than a glass lens FWIW. If the '52 still has the double socket just use a #81 bulb for the tail light and a #1129 for the stop. You'll end up with more brake candle power than an #1154 when tail & brake are both on & dang near as much as the #1157. All that is assuming you're remaining 6v. My 6v tail on the left compared to a modern 12v tail on the right. I use a plastic lens. I would have done the same comparison with the brake but I can't stand on the brakes AND take the picture too.

Hey Bill,

So, the standard way of wiring an 1157? That works. That's what I do to my lights. In fact, next in line are my grill lights which I will convert to take either an 1157 or an 1157A.

When trying to find what bulb is best, search Google for automotive light bulb lists. Usually you can find a list that shows what voltage, what base, how many candle power, etc. Of course, sometimes picking out the brightest bulb isn't always best. Dash indicators come to mind where the glare can be brutal.

One could always rig a clear LED set up behind the blue dot lens. Not impossible.

A few things to note:

1. The blue dots steal a lot of light. I don't like them, and the color they make the lights. If you put regular lenses back in, your lights will be brighter and more 'red'.
2. Wiring the 1157 that way won't gain you much brightness, if any. You'll likely also need a diode in the wire that's connecting to the taillight portion when it's on brake, otherwise you will have the lights on brake all the time.
3. I don't know what voltage you're using, but the best LED lights are the total replacement ones, or the ones that have a complete board and lens, with a socket that plugs into your regular socket. These are all 12V though, I believe. This is one example: https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/4838/Chevrolet_Led_Tail_Light_Assembly_Left_Side_Stainless.html

yes Mark, the 'standard' way of wiring an 1157 is one bulb in the light housing, I understand that, Carl is suggesting using both elements of one [1157] bulb for brake, and the single element of a second bulb for tail lights, I simply suggested using a brighter single filament bulb for the brake, skips 'modifying the socket' - with 12V, using the 1157 for both functions would certainly 'work', Carl wants to design a better mouse trap


Bill

Got it.

You're right. Finding a brighter bulb would be the better idea.

Other options for brighter lights would include making more direct power by using relays, etc.

One thing to try is to paint the inside of the tail light housing white, it does work better.I first tried chrome bumper paint, a little improvement but the white was better. I went with the glass lenses but they are very dark. I am going to try Tiny"s idea and use the brighter bulbs with plastic lenses.

There's a couple of problems with doing that. While it would work in theory, leds work best when the lens color is the same as the led color, or a clear lens. Using a white led, even with a red lens, you would end up losing most of the brightness as the lens would only allow the red part of the spectrum through.
A better way to do it would be to either block off the dot, so it's merely for looks (still blocking the light, though). Alternatively, one could segregate the dot within the housing, using a tube or shield, then place a blue led behind the dot. That will allow the dot to work as intended. The rest of the leds, which should be red, will need to be arranged so that they are not blocked by the dot. This is how I have mine setup, it works very well.

I probably shouldn't even be commenting since I'm not a big fan of blue dots.

Spot on Bill. I'm just looking for maximum candle power from the brake light socket. Anyone know what the candle power of each of the two elements in an 1157, and also the candle power of the brightest available single element brake light bulb? Also, does anyone have a picture of the LED bed hole tail lights installed on an AD. I am wondering if they can be pushed into the hole far enough to not look too gaudy.

you're not looking for a "brake light bulb", you're looking for a bulb that fits a particular base - any single element bulb [one 'dot' on bottom] will have a different 'bayonet' position than a dual filament bulb [2 'dots' on base], to prevent getting the bulb in wrong - I think 1156 will fit the original socket in your housing, 1157 requires a socket change

the 1157 is 32 candlepower and 3 cp [see why using both filaments is no help?]
the 1156 single element is 32 cp, don't know if there's anything brighter

Bill

FWIW the 81 and 1129 combined are 29 cp (8 & 21). The tail light is brighter than the 1157 or 1154 but the brake is a bit less.

Bill,
You are right about having to address the socket issue. I would have to replace the socket fiber disc (single contact) with a disc with the double contact, and use a drill and a dremmel tool to move the slot in the socket to match the 1157 bulb. Now I have to decide whether all of this is worth 3 candle power (32 cp + 3 cp of the 1157 versus 32 cp for the 1156). Is there a higher cp dual element bulb that is the same design as the 1157. I hate mice.
Carl