The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun 1948 1 Ton Dually Removing All Brake Cylinders

Hi All,

I spoke with Mark the Machinist today about resleeving all of my brake cylinders with stainless. His rates are totally reasonable so I believe this is the way to go.

I will be pulling the master and wheel cylinders this weekend and would like to hear any tips from the experienced. Is there anything I need to be careful with? Anything to avoid?

After I pull the cylinders, I will have them powder coated and then send them off to Mark.

Thanks for any advice you can offer!

Sincerely,
jose

Don't brake off any tube nuts or adjusters in the cylinders...
If they give you any trouble just clip the line , remove the cylinder and work on it on the bench, plenty of penetrating oil, and some heat if necessary.
A couple tools that make brake works simpler is a 'Flare Nut Wrench" they grip much better on a tube nut than an open end wrench.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...oup_ID=675030&store=&dir=catalog
And then if that's still not enough I've had good luck getting stubborn tube nuts out with these fancy vice grip pliers.
http://www.maxtool.com/us/products/ME1401-J.asp

Grigg

Thank you Grigg, this is what I needed to know. I think for the most part, since I am using all new lines, I will just clip them out and make sure I finish them up on the bench with a flare nut wrench. Great advice!

jose

The lines may not give you any trouble, try to remove them first. If they come off easily in one piece you still have a good original line to match up to or copy if necessary.

Don't scrap parts until you're absolutely sure you don't need to use or reference them again.

Grigg

ok, some more great advice. i'm going to hit everything with penetrating oil, use the proper nut tool, and clip only if absolutly necessary.

If you powder coat the outside of a cylinder the end caps will probably bind.

Can you explain?

Hi Grigg,

I guess truckernix is saying that the extra thickness of the powder coat will make it difficult or impossible to put the endcaps on the cylinder assembly?

I'm off today to buy the flare nut wrenches and some penetrating oil, looking forward to getting the cylinders off and ready to be painted, powder coated or whatever and then to have them resleeved in stainless.

Steady as she goes..
jose

I sort of understand what he's saying but pretty sure sure I don't agree, which is why I wanted more detail on his concern with powder coating. I might be missing something?

Grigg

<Cylinders>

Grigg, See Photo - bottom left cylinder with caps off.

Isn't that recessed end what the cap turns on? Isn't that a fairly tight tolerance where by powder coating would make thicker?

Mine are are on my truck; but if yours are apart, a pair calipers should answer the question.

I have not checked this thread for a while. I was referring to the fact that the Huck end caps slide back and forth on the outside of the wheel cylinder. If a substantial thickness of powder coating is added, they may bind.

Pass that detail along to the powdercoater and if it's still a problem sand the coating off unitl it clears.
Or just paint them cylinders and move on. Many times they're not even painted and survive just fine. No one will ever see them any how.

Since my post, I have completely cleaned the front wheel cylinders and end caps. There appears to be plenty of tolerance between the cylinder and end cap for powder coating. The end caps do not fit tightly at all. Is this correct or are my cylinders not in serviceable condition? I'm getting ready to send them off for powder coating as soon as the MC is cleaned and ready.

jose

That is not really not a wear point so no I wouldn't worry about that. You are going to have the fanciest looking brakes in town!