The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Re: What did you get done on your 'Bolt today?

Yeah, me too but now the latch is squirrely. Dunno how to adjust it...if I can. It's attached with some strange looking bolts. Also when propped up on the hold open bar the driver's side sags badly. I'm thinking it might get sprung doing that. Not sure what to do.

if you have the gap where you want it, and the hinges tight, have you put the springs on to hold the hood up?

When you let the hood down is it not "catching" and staying down? If so, screw the big bolt, that sticks down from under the hood, to the left to make it longer so it'll catch....and of coarse if its to long..then screw the bolt in to make it shorter. You can do it. Your half way home so don't give up on us know Dogface.

Alvin...Bro...I love you but I just wish you were here to SEE what is happening Are the hinges tight... I dunno...I tightened them as much as I could but who knows if they are worn/weak ? The hood does catch and stays down...it just does not 'behave' like it used to...you need to release the hood catch and raise the hood at the same time. Hard to explain. It does not just pop up...the springs are gone...and need the release to be pulled again to raise it. Maybe this is normal since the springs are gone. It's really kinda OK and I can deal with it...just not quite the same.

I'll move the prop up rod hole toward the center so the hood does not sag to one side...that should take care of it all.

Well I got the grille installed & the front bumper mounted & adjusted. I will finish up the parking lights tomorrow

Dogface
The hood "pops" open when you pull the release because of the coil spring around the latch pin, not the hood springs. It keeps the hood from rattling when it is latched by pulling the pin tight against the bottom of the latch. When the latch is pulled, it pulls the pin up through the latch so you can let go of the handle without it re-latching. Sounds like your problems a missing /broken or weak spring or the spring retaining washer is upside down. Also, if the hood pin is out of alignment with the latch hole by enough, it will catch on the side of the hole and the spring can't pop it through when you pull the release.
If you lower the hood, hold the hood latch out and then press down on the hood, you should feel the spring compress and the pin slide into the hole. Let up on the hood and it should lift the pin out of the hole easily. The hood should set 1/2 - 1" open on the spring.

If the springs are gone it's a really safe bet the hinges are worn and you'll never get it to adjust and work properly. You'll need to replace both spring and hinges.

The springs never worked to hold the hood open and, in fact, were causing poor fitment of the hood at the cowl. I can replace the hinges and likely should do that next. I'm happy using the hold up rod but want to avoid the sagging so will move the point on/under the hood where it inserts to a more midline position. The hood now fits well when closed...esp along the cowl..

This discussion needs to be in the paint and body forum. Let's return this thread to it's original topic.

Thanks.

It wasn't today but over the weekend, I finally finished rebuilding my starter. Installed it and she started up like a champ, no hesitation or lag. I also got the Driver's side door to latch correctly. I made a little adjustment and now it catches. The passenger side still won't latch all the way. I will try to fix it over the weekend.
Took the old girl for spin down to the post office and actually drove her into work one day during the week. The look on the guard's face was priceless. "oh my son, What year is that?.... nice truck"

next on the list is a front end rebuild and guage rebuild. The car wanders all over the place and not a single gauge works. I have never done a front end before but I have been reading a lot on here and found a lot of good info. My weekends tend to get away from me but I may start on Sunday.

Drilled a hole in the floor under the seat to route my ECM wires.

Finally put the cab down on the S-10 frame. Set the fenders on with vise grips to get the position right before I install the cab mounts.

Mike

[IMG]http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb287/reddie8/54-4.jpg[/IMG]

I broke down and tackled the front end of my 3100 this weekend.
I pulled the drums and had them turned at Les Schwab (they didn't charge me, which was really nice). Purchased new shoes and ordered a new set of wheel cylinders from NAPA. This evening I pulled the backing plates so I can clean and paint everything. All the smalls are in the solvent tank soaking. I still need to check the rear bearings and races.

In an attempt to cure my poor handling having had the front end totally re-aligned by a pro shop,I discovered there's far too much lateral movement in the rear suspension.
This is due to a badly executed rear 4-link arrangement. (Not my doing I might add!)
I fabricated a lower diagonal link bar to cure my wayward rear end! I've also had to modify the exhausts and as yet haven't had a chance to road test it. I'll be picking up the new pipe sections tomorrow.

Got the new front bumper brackets installed and remounted the front bumper.
Installed three lap belts in truck, ya i coulda ben grandfathered in but id i wanted at least a little restraint, they all tuck outta sight too.
Switched the park lights/turnsignals back to amber lenses.
Pulled the master cylinder off in prep for a rebuild and a general brake overhaul.

Chooglin

Looking good!

Back to amber lenses? '54s never had amber lenses until some goofball started marketing them years after the trucks were first produced.

ike the am

I like the amber better. It is more recognizable to oncoming traffic.

amber park/turn lenses for most series of old trucks became available because the law changed to require them sometime ago - some locales don't grandfather some things, and some folks think they're better

Bill

Everything is better if it's LED.

What law changed to require antique vehicles to be updated to modern standards?

I don't know about Red's area, he's above the 49th, which should have been 54.40, but Texas grandfathers all antiques.

The Ontario portion of the Great White North allows us exemption for any vehicle over 25 years old.

Last time I checked the RCW's of Washington State if the vehicle had clear lenses when it was first built, it is not required to be changed to amber lens or amber bulb's, in the front of the vehicle. I have amber bulb's for the contrast from the head lights.

I took the '53 1/2 ton for a 2 mile drive. I need to finish a few more things then buff it out for the 4th of July car show here in IONE.

Florida doesn't require vehicles to be updated and the last I checked DOT changes all start with "vehicles produced after...".

But back on topic, Last rear fender, bedside and tailgate on the '59 are primed and ready for final sanding. Hopefully will get the running boards striped this week. It takes more than twice the time working one handed.

Yesterday I buffed the truck. Inspected it from the test drive & found a leaking left caliper.

Well I took the truck for another short drive this evening & took a few pictures.

1953 Chevrolet 1/2-Ton 3100 4x4

got my first wire welder for $60, now to welding patch panels!!!!!!!!!!!




Indy

Finished cleaning and degreasing, grill assembly, engine compartment and the underside prepping for new engine coming soon, new speedo needle installed.

Remaining bed parts are now all painted. Now comes the assembly.............

Picked mine up from the shop today after dual carbs and headers put on. Holy Moley is it faster than ever. I'm really impressed. The pipes are too loud for me but I can live with it for a while. Sounds too much like local hot rod guys...

Carbs are dual Carter/Holly Weber two bbls set up progressive and originally from Tom Langdon.

That looks real good Mark. I had all stainless exhaust installed on mine and requested a stock stainless muffler. The shop spent 3 weeks trying to find one. Finally they found one but it is still pretty loud. The only advantage is my wife won't drive it because of the noise. LOL

Yours looks nice, Jim. I really like the interior.. I drove mine just a bit today but it started over heating again...almost 212 ... It was really hot here today but that's still too hot to have the motor get on a short drive. This has been an off and on issue and I'm not sure what the problem is.

Funny about the loud pipes... when I was 18 I would have love it...but now at 69 it's just too loud when I pour on the gas... Sure a lot faster though...;)

I had an inline six in a 1960 Ford 1/2 ton that wanted to run hot. Its been 50+ years but I think the cause was the timing was too far advanced. Check your radiator; if it's not new it might need flushing. You may need to add a fan. Take this over to the engine forum. Someone there will have better suggestions.

Yesturday morning finished washing & waxing both trucks. Took them to the local BLUES CRUISE CAR SHOW. The 1948 won 3rd place in it's class & the 1953 1/2ton won first in it's class & also won the title of "KING OF THE BLUES CRUISE 2013" . I guess all the hard work paid off!! might just have to take to a few more shows before the end of the year.

Congrats Slick. Kind of makes you forget all those frustrating days doesn't it? And its always nice when others that have done them compliments you on your work. WAY TO GO.


.....now you better build you a trophy shelf!!

Thanks Alvin. Frustrating days? lol Yep think more of a trophy wall....lol

I'm with you on this one roberr,on my truck it isn't a legal requirement to change them either but for safetys sake I took the amber option......

On the whole the great unwashed masses here in the UK don't understand US style lighting including the combined red rear brake/turn signals.

I rectified the rear axle location problem to avoid lateral movement as a result I had to remove the mufflers now I can't drive it due to exhaust clearance problems and the NOISE.....
I need to find slightly smaller mufflers but finances currently say otherwise..

One step forward......

Cleaning more parts for paint, painted about half the frame and underside of the cab. Ordered engine parts for Troy.