BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 31 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 31 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 235 | Looks like it has already been scrapped, not much to save... | | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 253 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 253 | Too much good sheet metal and pieces to scrap it. Part it out and help your fellow Bolters out!
1945 Chevrolet G 506 1.5 Ton Military 4X4
1967 Jeep Cj5 with 283 SBC
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,383 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,383 | I've seen worse get saved. Having said that, if you can get it cheap, parting it out would likely be best. There are a number of good body panels and if the gauges are still good there's a market for those too.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2010 Posts: 323 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2010 Posts: 323 | There is a few parts there but to me its yard art.Nice patina.
These old bolts are in my blood. Hard thing is focusing on just one.
1937 Chevy 1/2 ton panel
1953 GMC 2 ton. future car hauler
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 | If you have to ask the question, then the answer is to leave it for someone else. 1950 gmc 3/4 ton that has been exposed to the elements for years without a hood protecting the engine. The cab and doors look good for another project, beyond that is pure speculation on what is salvageable. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 174 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 174 | How much ambition do you have and how much in your wallet! I've seen projects started/finished with less to work with. Next, any parts saved are worth something to someone! Once it is crushed, it's gone! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 | Might be good to make a street rod out of using a S10 frame and drive train. It'll be a bunch of work, but would make some great before and after pictures.
You need to ask yourself if you are willing to spend the time and money required. Are you restoring it as a hobbie or looking to get something on the road real quick.
My Fleet: 19411953195919651966 1953 Willy's Pickup John Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | In my opinion on restoring these old trucks is that whether you start with one with this much surface rust, or a truck that has many layers of paint from previous restorations, the procedure is the same. You need to remove all the paint and rust. If there is an advantage with this truck, there aren't hidden areas of bondoed over rust craters and not much paint to remove. You can pretty much see what you need to do as far as metal work. I can't see the road through the floor board and the kick panels look intact. If I was in the market for a restore-able truck and had the ambition to do another one, I would not shy away from this one due to the apparent soundness of the cab. I wouldn't pay a lot of money for it, as it needs a lot of work (as they all do).
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | I would lean towards the scrap yard. If you have a title that matches the VIN, I would keep the cab and any good sheet metal. Someone may want it. The chassis, well I know a guy that just gives them away and puts everything on S10 frames. Not much there to save. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | Definitely worth saving, especially since it is in the desert. Some poor soul who lives in the 'Rust Belt' would die for it. Engine probably 228, needs 302 anyway.
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 | looks to be in pretty good shape to me... most decidedly don't scrap it. People have started with a lot less. Looks like the entire chassis is there, lots of body parts. I have to wonder why anyone would even considering scrapping it, there is too much good stuff there.
Last edited by brokenhead; 06/25/2013 9:57 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2012 Posts: 28 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2012 Posts: 28 | Save it. Here in the rust belt guys are paying big money for trucks in far worse shape.
1963 Chevy C30 - 292 I6 +.040" 10.78:1, SM465
1978 GMC K2500
"Four gears with a granny low and six cylinders straight in a row."
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 603 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 603 | No No Don't crush it. As others have said, here in the rustbelt, I have seen them in far worse shape. I see a door on it with no rust at all. If you can afford to, just keep it or store it. Someone's gonna want parts if not the whole truck.
I am working on a GMC 370 with more rust than that ones got!
Once its crushed, its gone forever. Well to China first then back to us.
57 GMC LCF 370 55 John Deere 40-W 59 John Deere 430-W 2000 GMC 4x4 56 John Deere 420-W Pix on Photobucket | | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,927 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,927 | I think that motor is a 235 Chevy not a GMC: the ribs in the head between the spark plugs don't look right for a GMC.
Professional Novice
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | I's still leaning toward scrap or part out. Looking at the inner kick panel, I don't see rust. The cab is probably in good shape. You may be able to save the front suspension and sell it. If it has the larger 15" rear drums, someone may want them. The rest, well scrap it. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | New Guy Vic: There are many definitions for "scrap", some people mean part out, some mean crush, some mean cut up. Don't think you mean crush. It's already in a scrap yard so that's your answer. It's not in your driveway, it's not where someone's wife will complain or anyone else. No one here would crush it if it's already in a place like that.
To me it looks like you are in or around the salvage business and already know what you are doing. You must know that the cab, doors, fenders, valance, interior stuff and all the other parts bring money? That's what they do at the place in the pics. The rest of those vehicles are in the same condition. Some of those, I would crush. You don't have to sneak a for sale in here, just put it in the "for sale" or "parts" section we have, as mentioned. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 162 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 162 | I don't see anything wrong with it! | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | He wanted comments and suggestions. Nothing wrong with that either. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 396 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 396 | My opinion and a dollar and a half will get me a cup of weak coffee but I am going to offer it anyway. When i find a vehicle for sale, I find out the local scrap yard price for unprepared junk , then figure out what weight is still there. I calculate remaining weight times scrap value per ton, minus what it will cost me to get it home plus get the skeleton from my place to the scrap dealer. This value is my starting offer. If and when the seller Bucks, I point out the Very Many flaws that I will have to repair. If he wont change, walk away and come back later. If he is still adamant in his requested price, I will recalculate MY ESTIMATED value Of the Big Ticket items like cabs, engines, tyranny,rear gear sets, fenders, running boards bedsides, tail gate, etc and raise my offer figuring in what I can sell these parts for. I will NEVER pay more than I can get back back in scrap plus parts price PLUS some BEER money for me. Just walk away.Gee, I maybe should NOT share this info or the price I need to pay for classics around here will not buy my beer and a few coins in my pocket. Just my opinion. Jerry
Last edited by 1951Chevy1Ton; 06/30/2013 10:58 PM.
Jerry
| | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 574 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 574 | that is a very good idea, might have to try that one day Indy 
1949 Dodge Coronet 1955 2nd Chevy 4400 1.5 ton 1955 2nd Chevy 3100 1/2 ton 1955 2nd Chevy 3100 1/2 ton 1957 Chevy 5400 LCF 2 ton 1966 Dodge D100 Sweptline 1968 Chevy P20 stepvan 1969 GMC LWB pickup 1972 GMC Sprint 1974 CP30 shorty bus There are three things that I've learned never discuss with people: religion, politics, and the Great Pumpkin.----Linus Van Pelt Trying to understand the behavior of some people is like trying to smell the color 9  | | | | | Joined: Jun 2013 Posts: 51 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2013 Posts: 51 | If it was closer, I would save it =) | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 29 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 29 | Front drivers side fender save, cab save, engine rip apart and look at what kind of shape it is in if block is not cracked save, and rear end is probably a save. I have about the same stuff for my truck and its mostly save. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 | save the truck. never know what parts someone might need.
John | | |
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