The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Valve Adjustment

OK. Here's what I know, according to the tech tips there two ways to adjust my valves. 1. turn the engine so that each piston comes to TDC and adj. intake & exhaust on that cyclinder. and 2. set the #1 piston at TDC and adjust several different vlaves (I won't list them here) then turn the crank 1 revolution and adjust the rest.

What I would like to know is which way is more accurate. Or is the accuracy in the use of the feeler gage and the operator. I've only adjusted valves twice in my life and I still havn't got it quite right yet.

Any tricks of the trade or advice would most welcome.

Oh yea, I'm running a 235 with a howard m4f cam, with solid lifters, set intakes at 0.014 and exhaust at 0.016 per the cam card.

Thanks
George

The method I use is found on their web site. Run engine get hot. Stop engine, take out all spark plugs. Take off valve cover. Take off dist cap and turn engne clockwise to get line up of rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Your goal is then to set both valves on #1 and thereafter in firing order. To do this slowly rotate the crankshaft until the intake valve is barely on the seat - then set the exhaust valve. Turn the engine again until the exhause valve is barely seated - then set the intake valve. Continue in firing order to set the others. You using .014 and .016 hu? Is the cam set straight up or .004 advanced? How does it run? Was the engine running hot with other settings?
T

I like to leave the spark plugs in and start the engine after adjusting every two cylinders to keep the engine warmed up, otherwise it gets quite a bit cooler when I hit #6. I rigged up a bumping handle to the foot mash linkage so I can bump the starter from under the hood.

After thoroughly warming up the engine, you only have to move the crank one time. Rotate the crank to TDC (Top Dead Center) and set half the valves. Then, rotate the crank one full revolution and set the other half of the valves. Here are instructions:

Valve Lash Adjustment for stock 216/235/261 engines with mechanical lifters

Please post corrections or additions.

Tim

A trick that an old mechanic taught me, long ago and far away, and for solid lifters was: As you go through the firing order, rotate the intake valve pushrod. As soon as it stops rotating, set the exhaust valve. Then rotate the exhause pushrod. As soon as you CAN rotate it, set the intake... Yeah, you gotta bar it over a bunch, but its a pretty accurate way to do it...

Thanks Guys. I'll try your suggestions this weekend and see how everything works out. 52pu, as far as I know my cam is set straight up seems to run fine. The .014 and .016 settings came from the cam card that Howard supplied. Once I get the valves adjusted right I think it will run great. I can't wait to give my new 3.55 rear end a good test.
Thanks again

Trying to nail down specific valve adjustment procedure and SPECS for my '48 235 mechanical lifter engine. Did advanced search on Stovebolt and read every post for 235 but these were for '50 and later 235's.

Below is closest I found but the link was dead (404). Any tips for this motor would be appreciated. Thanks!
Rob

http://speedprint.com/deves50/valveadjust.php
that one works for all of them. The other ones suggested are great too. We have some awesome resources here!

My link above was posted in 2002. Unfortunately, that hosting site is long gone.

Here is
Valve Lash Adjustment for stock 216/235/261 engines with mechanical lifters. As Deve posted, there are several similar sets of instructions that have been provided by members.