The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline tyre Coker Classic , or Diamond Back or....American Classic

well this is a mix of questions,....after 9 months of rebuild took truck out on shake down.....almost lost driver side Artillery wheel. (this is after torque.) now have damaged wheel...1/4 over sized holes...and no one in the uk...ready or happy to weld..rework the wheel...??? i cant / dont know what to do, of even if i can get a replacement rim over from the usa... i think its 16"/17" but to get me moving ..i have 15" original wheel...of which im looking for white walls to try make the truck look something. in the uk..i have the choice of the headline...all are expensive...and only a few $$ in it... im looking for highway driving at good speeds and handling? anyone got any idea which is best..im in a 3100, 1953 panel truck and will be carrying load... any advice on damaged wheel also appreciated....what a mess

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/hootschc/wheel4_zpsd5e7230e.jpg me trying with paint on?!!

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/hootschc/wheel6_zpsc843a77b.jpg the damaged set

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af75/hootschc/wheel7_zps6737135f.jpg this is the damage, over 1/4 larger hole

Daniel, it looks like the lug nuts are not tapered? Did you just use square headed lug bolts??

....I do like those artillery wheels though. Good luck. Hope you find a solution to your situation.

Hello Achipmunk, nuts used are tapered, for the first time in three years of having the truck I torqued the nuts, I usually do them @ man tight !! By torquing them up I think the taper and additional pressure cut into the wheel and started the edges of the nut to pull into the steel.... Thanks for your reply

lot more than 1/4" too big, the hole shouldn't be much more than the diameter of the inside of that nut, just enough to fit the stud, and over-torquing should stretch the stud, not drill out the hole, that wheel was probably bad when you got it from being run with loose lugnuts .... hopefully you're not meaning to run one 15" wheel and keep the other 16"

Bill

hello Bill, yep sure is over 1/4...my metric to imperial was a quick idea... sadly ive got to change out all artillery wheels and then put new tyres on original rims....hence any help with which to choose from as they are all so much money $313.00 per tyre + fitting and balancing......

if price is the main concern, go for modern radials you can buy locally, should be something with whitewalls

Bill

What spec did you torque them to? Looking at the pic of the nut, it looks like it might have been overtorqued at some time.

Hello bill from memory I wanted to get to 85-90 fl lbs but did them up as tight as I would use to, then put the wrench on to find that they needed a bit more, at this point I think I turned the wrench down to 80? It was weeks ago n sadly didn't think it was a big deal..... Apart for the fact that it was the first time I had done it!!!!

Wish I had looked more at what was going on , rather than think I had done a good job as bothered to torque them up!!

That makes me wonder if there perhaps wasn't an issue with the wheel fitment, possibly something hanging up or not allowing the wheel to seat fully against the hub. While 80-90 ft/lbs isn't really that much, the spec for the 1/2 tons is 45-65 ft/lbs, 80 really should not have hurt anything, though.

I'd say Daniel tightened the nuts as usual and found the wheel didn't seem tight and so tightened some more - I'd bet the wheel was already like that from having been run loose

Bill

That's what I was thinking, too. I've seen wheels get hung up in the index bore, either from a bit of corrosion or a bur, that will cause that condition.