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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 3 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 3 | Doing adjustable drag link upgrade to my 1950, 3100 as per tech tips. Pitman arm and steering arm holes are not tapered so the recommended FLAPS ball joints won't fit and I don't want to use heat and weld the holes to ream the taper. They also seem to be the wrong diameters, (Pitman = 5/8", steering arm = 3/4" which is opposite of what I've read)
Any reason I should not press fit a steel sleeve into the holes and bore out to fit either straight shank tie rod ends, ('55 - '57 Chevy car tie rod ends seem right?) or if I can get the correct reamer, ream a taper for the tapered ball joints I now have?
Thanks,
Tim Q | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | Look at my post in the tie rod end thread.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 3 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 3 | Curt, it looks like you have the degree of taper reversed for the part numbers?
"the short pc. (Napa#269-2078 aka Moog#ES-403R) has a 10 degree included taper" and " the longer one has the more common 7.15 degree taper"
I get the opposite when using an online taper calculator and NAPA's dimensions.
Thanks
Tim | | |
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