The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 head on 261 valve lash?

hello guys...im struggling.. ive a 261 block, which I have not fully stripped down as had good compression, and bearing all mesure up ok. The original 235 cylinder head was water damaged so im using a good 235 head ive had on another engine and putting it together. I have never build an engine before but so far so good, ive drilled all the steam holes required ect...so we are good to go. its in an engine stand. what im trying to do is set the valve adjustment... the head and rockers where of a 235 with hydraulic tappets and was running fine... im using the 235 pushrods as they are the same as 261 ones I removed. im looking at the timing marks on the front gears. (cam and crank).and the two stars line up. So im taking this means im at TDC no 1?? Following the procedure below http://1954advance-design.com/Documents/Adjustment%20of%20valve%20lash.htm4. Set the motor to fire on #1 cylinder. If the following valves are not fully closed, rotate the engine one full revolution (the crankshaft moves two revolutions to fire all 6 cylinders; the camshaft moves one full revolution for every two revolutions of the crankshaft). 1 Exhaust 1 Intake 2 Intake 3 Exhaust 4 Intake 5 Exhaust But to adjust im having to turn the adjusting screw is a long way…( think this is due to hydraulic tappets and now I have solids in this engine)…but now I have worked my way to number “4 intake” its tight even with no adjustment. To the point where the rocker adjusting screw is fully removed and still has pressure? Im not sure what to do? And its quite hard to explain it all!? Maybe the cam to crank is 180 degress out on markings? Should I try looking at the cam followers?

hello guys...im struggling.. ive a 261 block, which I have not fully stripped down as had good compression, and bearing all mesure up ok. The original 235 cylinder head was water damaged so im using a good 235 head ive had on another engine and putting it together.

I have never build an engine before but so far so good, ive drilled all the steam holes required ect...so we are good to go. its in an engine stand.

what im trying to do is set the valve adjustment... the head and rockers where of a 235 with hydraulic tappets and was running fine... im using the 235 pushrods as they are the same as 261 ones I removed.

im looking at the timing marks on the front gears. (cam and crank).and the two stars line up. So im taking this means im at TDC no 1??

Following the procedure below http://1954advance-design.com/Documents/Adjustment%20of%20valve%20lash.htm4. Set the motor to fire on #1 cylinder.

If the following valves are not fully closed, rotate the engine one full revolution (the crankshaft moves two revolutions to fire all 6 cylinders; the camshaft moves one full revolution for every two revolutions of the crankshaft).
1 Exhaust
1 Intake
2 Intake
3 Exhaust
4 Intake
5 Exhaust

But to adjust im having to turn the adjusting screw is a long way…( think this is due to hydraulic tappets and now I have solids in this engine)…but now I have worked my way to number “4 intake” its tight even with no adjustment.

To the point where the rocker adjusting screw is fully removed and still has pressure?

Im not sure what to do? And its quite hard to explain it all!? Maybe the cam to crank is 180 degress out on markings? Should I try looking at the cam followers?
_________________________

thats easier to read! sorry

looking into this more..ive been on it all day... ive a photo of where the distibutor sat with the front pulley stars lined up....engine was ready to fire number 6? should it not be number one? ive done a different setup...."companion cylinder valve adjustment" as per this link and all looks fine, but its looking at how they are firing not where the star marks are? but again if i set it up as per book its to tight on 4 intake? https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=7116&page=3

If you go to my website and look at the How-To articles, Jeff and Nate made a few great how-to's on valve adjustment, timing procedures, etc etc. GREAT stuff. I just got done using them both on MY 261 with the 235 (848) head and it came out great.

hay Deve...life saver..thank you...one explains what im looking at is wrong...the timing marks need to be at 10am and not together...!!

thankyou!

whatshttp://speedprint.com/deves50/doc/enginetiming.pdf going on...

Also, I heard, but cant remember where I heard it or if its valid, but something to the effect that just any 235 head is not compatible because the valves are too close to the pistons and the part number (last three 848) is the one you need. I could very well be wrong but maybe someone else knows?

when you have the marks on the cam and crank gears lined up (notice one mark is on a tooth and the other is between 2 teeth) then #6 is on compression, not #1. Of course at least one valve will be tight, one of them has to be somewhere in the course of opening or closing.

Deve, Not saying you didn't hear about using an 848 235 head on a 261, but I am currently running a non 848 head on a 261 with pop-up pistons and have no clearance issues. My 235 head has never been shaved.

Good to know! I wonder why I had to search all over for an 848? Hehe. Getting old! It was over 10 years ago.