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Shop Shark
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so I think I should use this stuff for stainless bolts into steel. thoughts?

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Sir Searchalot
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It is not as necessary as SS into SS, but it will not hurt. If you really mean bolts, not screws, then use it on big stuff. What are you using SS bolts for?


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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'Bolter
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Probably - a lot depends on application (where fastener is used). Most SS fasteners are 18-8 (low grade) unless you paid more for 316 grade SS. The 18-8 grade does not have the anti corrosion properties like 316. So in this case - an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

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'Bolter
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only if you want to take them back out [i would use it ]

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Yes, use an anti-sieze compound on stainless-steel bolt-threads in stainless-steel nuts.

This is especially important when the bolt & nut are the same grade/type of stainless.

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Sir Searchalot
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He said it's into steel not SS.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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'Bolter
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The key is to keep all the water out of the thread joints.
And actually it acts as a lube as well. It is the thing now for working on things like outboard motors and such. I never thought of using it like an antiseize in the old days. Something similar too or it... aviation permatex.


Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.


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actually bolts in steel like holding the hood hinges on and the back of the bed to the sides. and also nuts/bolts (both SS) like the fenders to the inside skirt.

after all this work - I just do not want any rust

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Sir Searchalot
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Using SS with steel, as I said, is not as bad as SS on SS. Galling is the term for seizing together. SS on SS will gall and be real hard to get loose, so you use molly lube type products. You will not have galling with SS on steel. These compounds are lubricants for the joint. But, as I said earlier, you can use anti-seize if you want. You definitely want to use molly on the SS to SS joints. I realize you are stuck with steel nuts, steel captive nuts and steel weld nuts already on the parts. The steel nuts may rust. Any protection they had is long gone and the new harder SS bolt will dig into what's left. If you can, apply an undercoat type product to the joint after fastening. That will help keep out air and moisture. Very nice job you are doing. Great garage paint job. Looks pro.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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yes Cowboy, Never-Seez is a good thing to use with dis-similar metals in contact - messy to work with, but helps prevent galvanic corrosion

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

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'Bolter
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never seize is good on nearly every threaded connection. Spark plugs included. I have worked on ships for 20 years, fishing up in Alaska for 15, and now I work at a waste water plant. We go through never seize like candy. Use it on many of the gasketed joints as well. That way you don't have to worry about scraping the gasket the next time you take it easily apart, because you used never seize on the bolts too. Up in alaska we would take bolts out of new machinery one at a time to put never seize on them so when we went to take it apart 5-10 years down the road it would. (come apart) It also works really good on battery connections, it is very conductive, helps prevent corrosion, and the bolts don't seize up.

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FWIW: Copper anti sieze works better in high temperature applications (like exhaust manifolds) and has a better electrical conductivity than the aluminum style: http://www.permatex.com/component/virtuemart/permatex--copper-anti-seize-lubricant-detail

Also, FWIW, most spark plug manufacturers don't recommend anti-seize use for their plugs:

From AC Delco:
Quote:
Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.

From Autolite:
Quote:
We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time. You may want to consider the periodic inspection of the plugs to reduce the likelihood of plug seizure during extended plug service intervals.

From NGK:
Quote

The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that
do not offer a special metal shell plating. Spark plugs that have a shiny silver
appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is
manufactured with special metal shell plating.

http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf

From Champion:
Quote:
Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory.



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Interesting.. I've used it for a while now. I see Champion uses their own.


David Gilmore
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'Bolter
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That may very well be, but I'm not going to pull another head to repair the spark plug hole that got tore out because someone didn't use never seize. All the arguments against it are potential liability issues for the spark plug companies. And as champion applies it from the factory, that pretty much makes my point. The spark plug companies are trying to protect themselves from those people who think the spark plug holds the entire vehicle together. Also a misfire isn't really the end of the world. "spark plugs that have a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is manufactured with special metal shell plating." Which is trivalent chrome, the same stuff used on hydraulic fittings, it is an anti corrosion plating, basically doing the same thing as never seize, you will also note they said "usually", they also said if it didn't have this coating to go ahead and use never seize. Notice Autolite just can't seem to make up their mind, don't use never seize, because you will overtighten them and tear out the threads, but without it, the plugs will gall in aluminum heads and tear out the threads, so basically you are screwed. Just use some common sense when you are tightening the spark plugs. I'm just going to keep on using it.

Last edited by brokenhead; 05/26/2013 9:29 AM.
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I've been using never seize on my spark plugs for the aluminum heads on my race cars for years,(and I'm not young) never had a problem.


Brian
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Sir Searchalot
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But we were just talking about some bolts on an old truck, not Alaska or boats or machinery or aluminium heads and mis-fires and race cars? Talk about off topic, about the many uses of anti-seez, geez! Greasy spoon this. The poster is long gone.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn

Moderated by  klhansen 

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