The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors AD Hinge repair.

I'm looking for some advice.
I recently purcheased a set of hinge repair pins from LMC,in the pack I received 4 oversize pins and 8 Brass bushes.
Having looked at the Youtube link in the tech tips section,the fellow makes no mention of the brass bushes,can anyone clarify where these go in the hinge assembly?

Just a guess but I would think you drill our the hinge and press the bushings in...

They are there if you choose to use them. Those pins, "in most cases" are about a little oversize. Read the tech tip on rebuilding these,John, and I think you use a 11/32 or a 13/32 bit to drill the holes out for the pins...not sure and as you know its always nice to check the ACTUAL size of the pins before you drill.

You can use the bushings but you'll have to drill the "tongue" piece out for them. I know this has been talked about and discussed but I can't find it.......yet. Remember, measure twice, drill once


EDIT: I think this is what your looking for.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/doors/hinges%202013/

Thanks Alvin a picture's worth a thousand words....
TBH That's not the link I saw.
My pins came without instructions too.
I had an idea that's where the bushes go,but thankfully I don't think my hinges are worn to the point I need them,plus I don't have access to a mill to correct the 'oversight'!
My biggest problem just now is the broken drill bit in one of the old pins.....don't ask!

Well.......the nice thing about bushings are that they become the replaceable wear surface.

John, if you don't use the bushings you may want to consider drilling and taping the "oil hole" and put a grease zerk in it. I have not done that but I have read here where it has been done. Makes sense that a shot of grease now and then would help out.....and uh, well, I'm not going to ask about the broken drill bit

Good point Mark although it has taken 63 years for them to get to the stage they're at,so I don't think i'll be replacing them again any time soon.....I hope!

Alvin,I've got a friend lined up who has access to Plasma spraying equipment so he can zap that sucker out!

...if there is ONE single thing I've learned doing hinges is that it takes HEAT to get them out. I've soaked, ground off the heads, drill out the pins myself but in the end.....a good rosy red hinge will make a job a LOT easier. For me it will be HEAT from now on to make a good clean job......just my opinion..

The hinges are in the hands of the pro's at the moment Alvin,my friend Allan has access to some pretty high tech,more importantly accurate equipment at his work,so they're being done as we speak.

Sometimes it's not what you know,but who you know.....so hopefully i'll be back on the road burnin' rubber before long.

Plus...I'm trying to make the most of our brief summer,they had SNOW in Aberdeenshire just two days ago!

This might be a dumb question but I am trying to rebuild the hinges on my 52 6400. I found the tech tip on this forum a while back explaining how to get the pins out after I broke several drill bits trying to drill the pins out. I used my torch and the pins came right out. Now I have oversize pins that I need to drill out the holes for. The pins measure .3405 on my old micrometer, I had been using a new digital one but found it is about 3 thousands off from the other one. Anyway I used a 11/32" bit which mics to .340 to drill out one hole on the formed portion of the hinge. The oversize pin fits easily but doesn't seem sloppy. My question is about drilling the forged portion, the pin should be free to move in that shouldn't it? The old pins were rusted solid. Sorry if this has already been addressed, I'm new to both the forum and fixing hinges. Thanks

Steve

....I used the 11/32 bit on both parts and my hinges have worked good for a couple years. Lube them up good before putting them in.

....there is a hole in the tongue(forged part) that you will need to clean out. It was a way to oil them but I doubt they ever got oiled....What I want to do, as mentioned above, was put a grease fitting in it...or next time I may counter sink the holes and use brass bushing which, in the end, may be the best answer?

Ok that is what I was wondering, never realized there was a lube hole. Found it after reading some of the other posts, I'm wondering how you would get a grease zerk to clear the metal in the door post. I'm thinking there might be a lack of clearance there unless a guy does some modification to the door post. I have some lithium grease in a spray can with a tube where I should be able to get grease onto the pin. I'm sure the old hinges hadn't been lubed in decades. Thing is this old truck will never get used like it once was so the hinges should outlast me for sure. Thanks for all the help, I'm learning as I go.
Steve

no zerk required Steve, use oil, not grease, and add a shot once or twice a year

Bill

I just finished building some hinges this past week. My forged piece,(or the hinge strap) I drilled up to I believe 11/32. When reassembled, per tech tip and Jerry Kassis video on Youtube, there is a slight amount of movement, but not much.

My understanding is that the pin is stationary in the housing, while the strap moves on the pin. I assembled with a little high temp bearing grease on the pin, and some anti-seize compound, so I feel comfortable they'll last another 60 years.

Check out the Jerry Kassis youtube video. it may help. Hope this clarifies things!! Mike

Ok, I've been drilling everything out to 11/32, like you say there is very slight movement but is pretty tight. I had just thought the spray lithium grease I had that is dispensed thru a wand might be a way to lube it thru the hole since I don't see how oil will get all the way into the pin. So you just put the anti-seize compound on the pin with the grease? Thanks for the additional info. Steve

I found that 11/32 on the hinge frame but Letter R on the hinge itself. Get one of those 115 pc drill bit sets for $60 at HF and a drill doctor to keep them sharp and you are good to go. I used to rebuild these things for a vendor and the 11/32 is big enough to cause a little wobble. The R bit takes care of that.

Deve, if right on about the "number" bits and I have done that also. I usually find that if I use a good SHARP 11/32 it'll work pretty good.....but Deve is right for perfection.

52 6400, yes I used hi temp grease with a little anti seize on the pin before driving the pin in, during re-assembly. Kinda lube it all up before driving the pin in. Mike

The bit I used where high quality carbide bits, starting drilling the pilot hole about 1/8th inch, and in small increments, worked up to 11/32nds. It's timely, but it's harder to drill a 11/32 hole all at once, especially in the hardened pins. I had to cut my straps out, the pins inside were rusted to the strap, and I used heat and penetrating oil, and a 4lb mallet. so I found the center of the pin, marked it with a center punch, and started drilling on the drill press, working my way up to the correct size. Hope this helps. Mike

Hey Mike,
I found that using heat and a punch with a large hammer the pins would come right out after cutting them on both ends. I found this out after the first couple attempts at drilling the old pins. Broke a couple bits doing that. Yesterday I finished drilling out the holes, one of the straps still had a little of the old pin seized inside. Like you said I had to gradually go up in drill size which took a good long while but got it done. I have a pretty good drill press and am using hardened drill bits I got from a place in St Paul online, very expensive bits. They still break however. Biggest thing is the fixture I have attached to the press for holding the work isn't very good, wants to move a little. There is a lot to learn doing this stuff, thanks to you and all the other guys who have been helping. I will no doubt have more questions on other stuff as I get the old truck back together.
Steve

Definitely a learning curve on this one!! I used some cutting oil, like Tap Magic, for cutting and tapping metal. Slow and easy is the way to go, sometimes had to back off and let things cool off. Had no luck on punching out the old pins, they were rusted solid on me! I did buy a cross vise for the drill press, which helped on the alignment of the strap to the drill bit.

Mike

Heat would do it, but remember the downside of heat is the molecular changes you are making to the metal. There is always a downside, so thats an acceptable way to do it.

I used a 20 Ton shop press and an appropriately sized punch. Do like Steve says and cut off both ends flush center the proper punch, and push it out. Remember there is an oil hole in the middle of the hinge that you can squirt some PB Blaster in to.

Patience is key. If that doesnt do it, use a center punch and dont screw up! Make sure you punch it in the VERY center. LOL! I dont think I have EVER been able to get it perfect, drill a 1/4 inch hole clear through. This should relieve alot of the pressure so you can use the press to get the rest out. If not, step up the drill sizes never going higher than 'R'.

If you can do that, you are ready to tackle all sorts of fun stuff, so be happy and proud of yourself if you pull it off!
The cross vise is really a good thing to have. Good luck!