The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
7 members (Ridgeback, Steelonsteel, TooMany2count, qdub, klhansen, Lightholder's Dad, joetravjr), 581 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,780
Posts1,039,291
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#937825 04/23/2013 1:42 AM
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 25
L
New Guy
New Guy
L Offline
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 25
I guess this would fall under paint and "body" work.

How do I fix the problem with my doors of when I close them they close and the latch catches but you can still pull them open a little. Its like there is slack in the door latch?


1953 Chevy 3600
lucky7matt #937836 04/23/2013 5:49 AM
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,329
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,329
I guess the AD's have adjustable stricker plates? If so you loosen the mounting bolts for them and slide them towards the inside a little bit, snug em and check, keep doing that till it does what you want. If you run out of adjustment then the weather strip around the door is old and worn out likely or not there.


Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.


As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
lucky7matt #937842 04/23/2013 7:33 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
lucky7matt,

1953 3/4 ton Chevrolet truck?

There are adjustments that can be made:

door adjustment (locate the door in the center of the cab opening)
then
door striker plate adjustment (in/out and up/down) - if these parts are significantly worn, a seemingly tightly latched door can slip out and rattle.

Is there significant wear on the contact surfaces on the striker plate and/or on the door lock/latch?

With you doors open, how tight are your hinges/hinge-pins (up and down movement of the door? (loose hinges cause significant rattling and can allow the latch/catch to loosen).

What is the condition of the door seal? (on/around the door). If all mechanical parts are tight, the seal is really a draft-seal, not an anti-rattle seal. However, a good/tight door seal will lessen rattle and maybe lessen door movement when you have other loose parts.

In a stripped-down restoration, before installing the door seal, we try to set up tight doors that cannot be moved/rattled when closed (with no seals in place).

lucky7matt #938881 04/26/2013 9:45 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
It sounds like the guts of your latch mechanism is worn, or if you are lucky, gummed up. I had to totally disassemble my drivers side one and tig-weld badly worn pieces to replace missing metal. I used the passenger side latch as a template to know what things are supposed to look like as the passenger door is generally not subject to as much use and abuse. It was a very challenging but rewarding experience!


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 0.049s Queries: 14 (0.046s) Memory: 0.6095 MB (Peak: 0.6479 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 19:30:47 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS