The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs Rear door hinges on panel

My right rear door hinges on my 58 are damaged - does anyone know if a 47-55 hinge will fit? Threads are damaged on mine, plus bottom hinge is broken inside.

Wow no response yet Sorry, but give it some time.Someone here knows. My panel is a 37 so I know I'm on my own. I'll drill them out over sized and make new pins or worst case have new ones made.

i was waiting for others to chime in, I am limited to the 1947/55 Suburbans and panels. The task force suburban and panels are unique to themselves. I will try and match the two types together when I get to the shop. No guarantees, I forget as I get older.

according to the master parts manual 47-55 is different from 55-57 [55-59] and left/right upper differ .... as I would suspect due to the different shapes of the rear between AD/TF, and of the doors themselves

Bill

That's what I figured Bill, I do have a set of each for comparison. On another note, I found that the AD hinges are very similar to the COE, but they still won't work.

A local business - KMS Tools has an early Panel out front and I took some pictures. They look very similar but it is difficult to be certain either way. I will go back and measure the bolt holes etc. Goneagain, maybe I should just helicoil or weld and drill out the stripped holes. My stupid mistake really. I broke two bolts on the right door and one was already broken. If I had taken more care like I did on the left door (heated the hinge as much as I could, then tightened before loosening, and then lubricated and retightened as I felt resistance,) I probably would not have this problem. Oh yeah, I welded the broken hinge arm on the passenger side and made too big a bead - now I have to grind it out so the door shuts all the way............

Ted, I was doing some cleaning up and I found a set of the TF hinges, now I am sure that they are not the same as the early hinges. These are taller than the early hinges and the bolt holes may not line up either.

Next time you are trying to remove bolts and the piece is small enough to fit in a tank, you should try the electrolysis process to free them. In your case if you had ground off the head for removal and then tanked them, the next day you could easily remove the bolt. My brother has been doing this for years and now I am hooked!

Maybe I'm lucky My hinges are just flat straps but every screw is frozen so it's drill it out then run a tap through the hidden cage nut.Works most of the time.

Luck does not to be on my side Goneagain. I am interested in the electrolysis method - where can I find out more? I am certain that heat works more than just expanding one part - I think heat is initiating a chemical process that is breaking a bond caused by rust. Electrolysis is probably doing the same thing.

in the tech tips here, and many other vintage sites: elecytrolytic de-rusting [washing soda works some better than baking soda]

Bill

Thanks Bill!