The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks 1966 Custom Camper with a 283

Anyone on the forum have experience with the timing on a 283 engine? My neighbor and I aligned the timing marks, so the rotor would (ostensibly) be aligned at the number one piston. Got everything assembled, and the engine wouldn't fire. Tried rotating the distributor in increments, but that didn't work either. I traced out each wire to ensure it was on the right numbered spark plug (put on new wires and a cap while I was doing this), and my neighbor pulled one plug to ensure we were getting a spark (we were). Also, we made sure gas is flowing to the carb. On occasion, I'd get blowback through the carb...and it seemed like the blowback was exhaust. I'd appreciate any suggestions any of you might have. Oh, would also appreciate what dwell angle setting should be for this engine...can't find that anywhere.

probably 28-32 for the dwell , points 19

is this an engine that you have just rebuilt

Joker,

I have not rebuilt this engine...yet. I was able to get it started last Fall, but then took the distributor out to clean it. I'm now beginning to think I may have re-installed the distributor 180 degrees out from where it needs to be. Any thoughts on that?

I was curious about that... I think you are correct, if it ran ok before then that is probably the problem..

yrs ago I decided I was going to put new lifters in mine,and did not have any experience at all, had one that I could not get out, so I turned the engine over thinking that would help, I forgot I had taken the dizzy out...got the lifters out and new ones back in, I was so proud of my self, never could get it restarted, had my father in law to come over
and that was the first thing he asked... he messed around with it and when it did start it blew the oil filter cap off with a big bang..he got it running right really quick because he knew what was doing..lol

The position of the rotor relative to #1 doesn't matter, it's totally meaningless. Take the plugs out and spin it over with your hand (clockwise, of course), with your finger in the #1 plug hole. When it tries to blow your finger out it will be on the compression stroke, then rotate it the rest of the way over to the timing marks (TDC). The rotor needs to point at the #1 PLUG WIRE on the distributor cap.

Hope this helps.

If you aligned the marks on the cam and crank gears (cam dot at 60clock,and crank gear at 12 oclock), then after assembly you must rotate the harmonic balancer (crank) 1 complete rotation before dropping your distributor in and aligning the rotor to number 1, otherwise you are without a doubt 180 degrees out.
Steve

180 degrees out is my first thought too. The quick fix is to swap the plug wires directly across the cap. I have done this many times on my tractor.

I would pull it out and reinstall, like rotate 180 degrees (half turn) and reinstall
although the switch wires would work, why not do it right instead of halfassing.

Thanks to all for the advice and suggestions. I was going to try and fix this today...but allergies have me flat on my back. Looks like I'll have to wait 'til Saturday to finish up.

just get er done... we have storms heading our way tonight

Craig,
You might want to check in with the Old Dominion (ODSS) guys, where you will meet SWEET. He claims to be a magician with engines and resides in your area. Better yet, come down to HQ on Homecoming weekend and watch SWEET do a number on my 283.
Do you have the shop manual yet? Good description of timing, dwell, and trouble shooting techniques.
HB

HB,

Thanks for the heads up on ODSS and SWEET. I would like to take you up on visiting, just don't know when the time will allow me. Oh, I have one manual - an assembly manual - but I don't have the shop manual. If you can point me in the direction of one of those, I'd be grateful.

By the way, I'm about to go outside and install new spark plugs, and a new starter. I got the distributor back in - correctly this time - and was able to start the engine twice. But, the starter was acting up, so I decided just to replace it. I'll let you know how it goes.

Craig

OK...here's a quick update. Put in the new plugs and the engine turned over right away. Let it warm up and was going to check the timing. At low speed the engine stalls. Got it started again, all the time monitoring the low idle speed and revving it when needed. Stalled a second time. This time, went to start it and the old starter started smoking. Realized the starter wasn't going to last, so packed it all in for the day when the rain was starting.

Again, thanks to all for the advice/suggestions. It's been a big help. Best regards,

Craig

another thing to to ponder this. you say you had it fired last fall. when was the last time that it really ran. how old is the gas in the tank?
ron

We have a good shop down here in St Mary's that will rebuild the starter and generator (if needed). They do real nice work. Glad to hear the distro worked better 180 degree otherwise. You can find the shop manual in the links section or purchased through any of the vendors.
http://www.tocmp.com/

Craig I just went through some stuff I had hidden in the garage. I have a shop manual if you are interested.

Hambone,

Thank you very much for your offer, but I found one on ebay and ordered it last evening. FYI, I bought a new starter and got it installed today. Not too much of a hassle. Also, my neighbor helped me set the timing and tweak the dwell angle. So, now it's on to the brake system (which is totally shot) to get this back on the road. Oh, almost forgot...it needs a new muffler as well. Once the Muffler is on and the brakes are done, the restoration will really begin. Goal is to get it road worthy, and then rebuild it in sections. Cheers Hambone and thanks again for the offer.

Craig

Here's another question for the forum. Now that I have the engine running well, the manual choke on my 283 sticks. I removed the choke wire and lubricated it. When the choke wire is detached from the carb, it works well and slide in the sleeve easily. When I re-attach the cable to the carb, it still sticks. My neighbor and I isolated the source of the sticking to when the Idle set screw engages the small cam that operates the butterfly valve of the choke. When the idle set screw is removed completely, the choke works well with no sticking. As soon as the idle set screw is engaged, the choke fails to operate smoothly.

Appreciate any thoughts you all may have.

Craig

I plan to visit my truck wed, after work. I will look at the carb and see if I can witness what you describe. Mine is stiff but it does not hang up.
Also, I have lots of learning to pass along over a long beer. It sounds like you are headed down the same road I traveled over the last few years. Hopefully I am nearing the end of the road after lots of wrong turns, red lights and a few train wrecks.
Feel free to PM or check in: [email protected], with questions and road blocks. And be sure to capitalize on the local expertise. Many of us are less than 60 miles away from DC.
Hambone

Craig, that's the fast idle cam. Just open the throttle slightly with your foot when you work the choke and it won't catch on it and hang up.

For 66Submarine....I plan on working on my truck Saturday afternoon and will let you know what happens. I'll try your suggestion and see where it leaves me.

For Hambone...I plan on taking you up on your offer of beer and help on the truck. FYI, I ordered the exhaust parts from my local NAPA Auto Parts store. They won't be in 'til next week (Monday or Tuesday) so the new exhaust system will be next week's project.

Craig

Prior to pulling on the factory manual choke cable, press the accelerator pedal. This will allow the butterfly to open freely.

Great advice I never bumped into.

Anyone out there have experience with replacing the exhaust pipe on a 66 Custom Camper? I've got the new muffler and the tailpipe, but the exhaust pipe that I got from NAPA is the wrong one. I tried LMC and one of my local dealers, without luck. Any suggestions?

Craig

Try a Midas or a Meineke or maybe an established independent muffler shop.

My local Midas had patterns to bend up stock systems for 1965 V8 El Camino and 1958 V8 Apache 31 last time I needed them done.

Rick,

I found the right exhaust parts for my Custom Camper. I searched, and found a place called Waldron Exhaust, based in Michigan. I received the Exhaust pipe I needed last week and installed the system today. It works like a charm. I would recommend them to anyone. Now, I'm on to rebuilding the brake system.

Craig

Walker stills carries the factory-correct, Y-to-1 downpipe from the factory Ram's horn exhaust manifolds. I believe Rick O., turned us onto this source a few years ago and we have used them since.

Tony is spot on, the Walker exhaust I ordered for my pickup was perfect. I got the pipe from the manifold, muffler, and tail pipe. I would definitely recommend them.