The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (Otto Skorzeny, Gib70, Uncles51, Leo), 136 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,164
Posts1,056,977
Members48,458
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 117
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 117
So my situation is I have a totally rebuilt 59 235 car motor that has the 2 pc neoprene rear main seal replaced twice and still leaks, bad. I'm talking a quart every 200 miles or so. Strange thing is it never leaked prior to the rebuild and had the same type seal.
This motor did get a reman crank (.020 mains and .010 rods) and I am wondering if enough material was removed/polished off of the seal surface to affect the neoprene seals ability to seal.
I am going to try a rope seal this weekend as some of the searches I found indicated that some of you all have had better luck with and felt the rope seal was a better option.
One further question, should the rope seal be soaked in motor oil prior to installation or just put in out of the package?
Any suggestions? Experiences?

Thanks,
Chuck

Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 566
T
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
T Offline
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 566
I would try a rope seal with the asbestos from NOS like the original. This week end i am going to try it.


"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen

56 Chevy 3100
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,847
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,847
NOS isn't a place it, means new old stock. leftovers from when they actally made them. (unless you are dealing with nitrous, then it is a brand name) I'm not sure exactly when they stopped making asbestos seals, but I'm thinking mid 70's(?) The absolute best way to go if you had the engine apart is the full circle seal, but it doesn't sound like you really have that option. Just keep it in mind when, and if you build another one of these engines.

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
If your engine is machined to take a neoprene seal (which
your '59 is) then consider yourself lucky. That is a much
better seal than the rope seals were or are now. They are a
contant problem and leak 98% of the time even when properly
installed.

.020" off the rear main bearing surface is nothing to be
concerned about, that only amounts to .010" at the sealing
edge. A neoprene seal is much more tolerent than that.
I would suspect that the seal is not being installed properly or
is being damaged when it's installed.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
I would look at the clearance on the main bearings, especially the rear. I know it is a rebuild but too much clearance will cause a leak.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0