Just finished replacing my bushing and now have a once used puller, no expectation of needing it again. I hate to see any tool lay around unused. I will consider loaning it out to anyone for shipping cost. Considering the results one of our other members had loaning his puller, I would ask for a refundable deposit. I would also sell it at 1/2 price.
With the right tool, it was like cutting through soft butter.
I bought the bushing some time back. Not sure, but I think it was "The Filling Station". Installing the new bushing was a bit un-nerving - the first inch or so went pretty easy, but then it stiffened up - I had visions of it getting frozen at a halfway point. But persistance paid off. For the last inch, I had to replace the 2x4 with a large socket in order to clear the end of the drive shaft. All in all, I was pleased with how well it all went.
Thanks for the reply. There is some confusion these days as to whether the suppliers have them in stock again. Some of them advertise like they have them and then on the phone they say tyhat they don't.
Anyone have a picture of an "Oakie" bushing un-installed?? And what sort of puller is it that you're talking about Bob to remove the old bushing? Is it a slide hammer, screw type, etc.?? I'd like to see a picture of that also. Thanks, Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Unfortunately, I installed my bushing yesterday - cant help with a photo. The following link will show a photo of the tool : http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/13138/Chevrolet_TOOL_BUSHING_PULLER_FOR_DRIVELINE.html The 10 or so fingers slide into the torque tube, the tab is pushed forward to lock the fingers out to engage the bushing, then the lead screw turned to pull the bushing. Worked like a dream. The hardest part was retracting the finger lock to get the old bushing off the tool.
My bushing came from Chevs of the 40's - they may have a photo.
Thanks Tim lots of general pictures, but, you know me by now, I gotta reverse engineer everything. I'm assuming the end of the tool with the bolt is solid and tapped so the bolt pushes against the splined shaft to pull the bushing. I don't get the tab thing on the side, is that welded to a ring inside that spreads the finger and is the finger end tapered inside? Ya see, these pictures only show the side views of it. The Chevs of the 40's Okie bushing looks like it's solid brass. The one at Classic Parts looks like it's ???? some sort of outer sleeve with a thin bushings pressed into the ends. And where is the seal on the Okie bushing? Again, I'm assuming it’s pressed into a boss machined into the end that's not shown. I haven’t worked on a closed drive shaft rear end since back in the late 50’s. Don’t have to go thru this exercise with the 3600’s that I have but I may end up with a half ton in the shop one day.
Couple pages more of discussion and I might be able be pry enough out to satisfy my curiosity.
The reason there might be two styles of bushings might date back to the original patent and the fact that a second design was made and sold until the patent office stopped that.
A very interesting series of documents on this invention and the double-dealing that took place was posted recently on oldGMCtrucks.com
I'll see if I can link to the document. You'll find it to be very interesting. These documents answer my trivia question, above.
I have no idea how the puller works. I had my torque tubes off on the two I replaced - I pushed the old bushing/bearing out from the inside using an appropriately-sized metal plumping pipe (this also pushed out the seal).
- My guess (probably totally wrong) is the the bolt is screwed into a sold piece of tapered cylinder. - That cylinder if screwed out towards the bolt-head and towards the end with the tab on the outer-side. - That allows the tapered/fingered-end to go through the original bearing/bushing. - After the fingers are through the end of the back of the original bushing/bearing, the bolt is screwed in/out the solid cylinder, forcing the cylinder to spread the fingers until the ridged fingers are on the outside of the back of the bearing/bushing - then, I guess you tap the tab to knock the bushing/bearing out.
This conjecture could be ridiculously wrong.
The original method of installing the "Okie" bushing (in 30 minutes) was to push the old bushing in (not remove it) and hammer in the "Okie" bushing.
A.The below info pertains to the torque tube driveline front Bushing Puller tool. ***For use on 1937-54 Chevrolet passenger cars & pickups***
Originally Posted by Denny Graham
I'm assuming the end of the tool with the bolt is solid and tapped so the bolt pushes against the splined shaft to pull the bushing.
____Correct, The solid and tapped end is slightly larger than front bushing, ____Slots in between fingers allow room for fingers to compress inward. ____Once finger hooks get past the back side of bushing, the fingers snap outward. Check illustration
Originally Posted by Denny Graham
I don't get the tab thing on the side, is that welded to a ring inside that spreads the fingers.
____Correct, To keep the fingers hooked to the back side of bushing.
Originally Posted by Denny Graham
Is the finger end tapered inside?
____NO, The solid and tapped end is slightly larger than front bushing. ____The thickness of the hook end of the fingers is small enough so they can slide in between the external splines and the bushing.
B.The below info pertains to the Okie bushing.
Originally Posted by Denny Graham
Okie bushing looks like some sort of outer sleeve with a thin bushings pressed into the ends.
____Correct
Originally Posted by Denny Graham
Where is the seal on the Okie bushing? Again, I'm assuming it's pressed into a boss machined into the end.
____Correct, The seal is pressed into the end that faces the axle.
Here is a Okie bushing and Driveline Bushing Puller Photo Album with Okie bushing installation instructions.
You might want to check out this post for more info on original bushing OD dimensions.
A picture is worth a thousnd words, and a couple dozen pictures tell the whole tale. Thanks Jorb, that covers all the bases in one reply and my curiosity is satisfied.
I have searched quite a few threads but have not been able to find either the part number or where I could buy the replacement propeller shaft bushing. This is from a 1950 3600. Everyone seems to have the 'Okie" bushing for the half tons, but no listings for the 3/4 ton. Please excuse me if the info has been posted on this forum somewhere, I just cant find it. Thanks
I have searched quite a few threads but have not been able to find either the part number or where I could buy the replacement propeller shaft bushing. This is from a 1950 3600. Everyone seems to have the 'Okie" bushing for the half tons, but no listings for the 3/4 ton. Please excuse me if the info has been posted on this forum somewhere, I just cant find it. Thanks
The Okie Bushing Assembly was designed only for 1/2 ton trucks and passenger car torque tubes..
The 3/4 ton truck I believe has a different propeller shaft/s set-up, Check HERE Courtesy Denny Graham, Is this how your front propeller shaft looks? See attached picture.
