The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Water base paint.

Is anyone using it on there trucks.Most of the body shops here are using it.I have been using urethane,ether singal stage or base coat. clear coat.

Water base is still Basecoat/Clear coat. you use the same clear, but the base coat is waterbase.
We havent switched over to it in our shop yet, but some shops here are using it.
The state hasnt made it a law yet. We were told by 2012 all shops in mass were suppose to change, but havent gone through with it yet.

It does spray a little different, & dries a lot different. A little tougher in humid weather.
You still use the same primers & clear as you would with solvent based base coat. It's mostly in the drying, and the way it lays down is where you notice a difference.
The reason water base is available is because of the new VOC laws. the EPA is pushing for less voc's in the base coat, water base is the only alternative right now. Some states it's mandatory, other states it isnt yet.

might as well go with it, OEM is mostly that now, and gonna be all thats available before long ... and it might still involve urethane too - but it takes different techniques, so there'll be a learning period to attend to here's a bit from Eastwood, and from CarCraft

Bill

Id avoid it if possible, Believe it or not, even though it is better for the atmosphere , it is worse for us.
When spraying waterbase, they want you wearing full body protection with a fresh air system. The reason being, our bodies our made up of a certain percentage of water, if not protected you will absorb it.

A friend of mine has a pro shop.and said he is 100% water born .he said his body men really like it.They claim color match is much better.He has a down draft paint booth with a way to bake the paint. I wonder how it will hold up as it ages.It is not mandatory here yet,but most of the shops have went to it.I wonder if it cost less. urethane is costly.I remember when I could get a gallon of paint and reducer with hardener for $40.

It holds up fine, Every car manufactured today has water bourne on it. just about every aftermarket bumper cover comes with water base primer on it, they hold up fine.

Price wise, it's pretty much the same, & remember, you still have to use urethane clear over it.

Have to disagree with that. It chips very easily. I have a freind that has a late model (2012) car that was painted with waterborne paint oem, the front end of it is chipped up very badly. Both of his other vehicles, which were painted with solvent style paint (again, oem paint) do not have the first rock chip. Same goes for my own trucks that are driven on the same roads, one with an almost 30 year old oem paint job, the other painted with single stage PPG about 15 years ago by me.

What about the cars built before 2012 that came from the factory with water base, and dont have stone chips? Rock chips has nothing to do with hold out. Hold out is how long it keeps it's shine and how long it holds out to weather , Acid rain & ultraviolet rays from the sun. Any paint will stone chip, its not bullet proof. Some paints are a little more durable than others. If a stone hits your car, it's gonna chip.
Holdout also has to to with how the prep was done.I will admit that some brands will chip easier than others .
Stone chips on the front has a lot to do with how you drive and where you drive. A car that spends most of it's life in the left lane on the highway than around town, is prone to stone chips.
The easiest way to tell? look at the headlights & windshield.
They're usually pitted just as bad.

I bet the boeing planes don't use water born. And the VOC's are really crazy when one of them dumps fuel for hours on end.

For a true original restoration water born won't work. They just didn't do that in the 40's and 50's. Thus not factory stock. I have yet to see a base clear job that doesn't have the clear peel at some point in time. A single stage won't do that. Water paints only last about 10 years outside if that. Old factory enamels will last much longer.

Here in Alberta waterborne has been required for at least a year. However, there is another alternative to the waterborne base coat. There are several manufacturers now with eco-paints that are a low VOC solvent-based base coat. They're getting to have lots of colors in them as well, and they apparently spray exactly like the regular solvent-based base coat did. Something else to look out for too, if you're absolutely set against waterborne.

I just think it is so funny that people poo poo using something like tractor paint or rustoleum both of which are alkyd enamels, and can or don't have a hardner, and normally air dry, yet they will freely use an air dry 100% water born with zero hardners,or catylists, I really don't understand the logic. 100% means primer, base, and clear would all be water born, and air dry, that means a fan and heat source to force the water out of the finish. I wish someone could explain why air drying water vs the other type of paint is soooo much better?

And how come in these states they still use the "in their mind the bad stuff" for painting anything owned by gov, including bridges, metal buildings, etc. yet the slobs like us are not allowed to protect our items with it? And still thousands of tons of voc a day are spewed from jet aircraft? Sorry this whole topic gets me fumin.

This is all because of the EPA, a lot of it is bull.
3 years ago we were told by 2012 that all shops in the state of Massachusetts was suppose to change over to water base base coat.
Well here we are 3 years later still able to use solvent based base coat. Although some shops here have changed over. according to our suppliers, it's still legal to use solvent based base coat here.
They did make us change our guns again. they want even less voc in the air than when they first made us change to HVLP. Luckily I only had to change one of my guns.
As far as I know, there isnt a water base clear yet. At least with the brands Im familiar with.

Which is it, hold up or hold out? In your earlier post, you said "holds up just fine", which can be taken as the paint is durable and resistant to chips, fading, etc.

Paint is the least of all the fabricated problems they invent, and deem bad.

Well Bill...I suppose if you really need to get technical, I will use the words "hold up" since those were the original words used in the question.
To me, hold up or hold out, refers to the same thing. It all has to do with how long it lasts, weather it be fading, cracking, peeling, or what ever.
But as far as stone chips I stick by what I said.
I apologize if I came across the wrong way. Really not trying to get into a [censored] contest.