The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay I'm Not Charging

I just finished freshening up the engine compartment of my 57. In the process, I replaced the wiring harness (engine and dash and lights) and converted to an alternator. It doesn't seem that I'm charging.

With the truck running, the guage reads slightly toward discharge. If I turn on the lights, the needle moves more toward discharge. Tonite, I drove about 15 miles with the lights on and stopped for dinner. After we ate, I tried to start the truck and the battery was dead.

I double and tripple checked the wiring connections. I'm pretty certain that I have everything hooked up right. How would you suggest that I diagnose the problem?

I used a 3-wire alternator and a Chevy Duty harness designed for a 3 wire alternator. I also installed a new fuse box.

Oh; it's still got the 235 in her.

Hmmmm ... sounds like you have a bad ground wire somewhere.

Have you checked all the grounds?

I had a look at the picture in your album. The black jumper from the #2 terminal (terminal furthest away from the BAT post) should be connected to the BAT post (along with the red wire). I assume the red wire goes to the battery and the blue wire (#1 terminal) to the ign idiot light. You have the black wire grounded now.

Your black wire in the 2 wire connector is your remote sensing wire. It should run to your junction connection (the other end of the red wire). I'm assuming it is not the same wire that is grounded to the alternator as Gord suggests.

Many people just run it to the terminal where you have the red wire but that is a bad idea. Here\'s why.

Your blue can run to a warning light but it will work without it.

Gord and Cletis,

Thanks a bunch.

I've never felt comfortable about this whole charging business. With guys like you around, I'll get it though.

There were no instructions in the wiring kit for the black wire. The connector and length just suggested ground to me. Logically, it didn't make sense though that they'd ground to the body of the alternator. Perhaps the kit intended for the connection to be at the BAT post. The wire seems to fit that best of all.

I'd like a little help understanding more about the junction connection idea though. I read through the link Cletis offered. However, I don't have such a connection (at least I don't hink I do) in my truck. Should I be adding one? Or, should I be running something off of the fuse box? If I add one; where would you suggest getting connecting it in the circuit?

Thanks again guys.

Jerry

Connecting the #2 wire to the BAT stud is not all that bad an idea. The alternator will work, but as the article you reference suggests, the output voltage will be lower. Still better off than the generator that it replaces and the old trucks don't generally have a lot of electrical accessories. Small price to pay for cleaner wiring?

Unfortunately, Jerry's picture is cropped such that we can't tell for certain that the #2 term is connected to the ground stud. Since both wires are black, it's a good guess. I certainly don't like to see more than 1 wire of same colour and size connected to the same component. The proper wire colours, as per GM factory wiring diagram are:
Red to BAT
Red to #2
Brown to #1


Yes, warning light is optional.

My 66 acted the same way after I rewired it. It turned out a wire from the voltage regulator had come lose under dash. you probably have a different system though.

Jerry, I see you responded while I was composing my last post.

So... are you are confirming that the #2 term is currently connected to the ground stud as I assumed? That's not right.

The "junction connection" on my 1980 Chev truck is the battery stud on the starter motor - GM simply ran the wire from the #2 term to the starter. You can do that or connect it to the BAT term as I suggested earlier - sounds like that was what Chevy Duty set up for you.

I am not impressed that Chevy Duty did not follow the colour scheme, or that they did not give you good instructions.

I'm not sure if you're sticking to "original" here or not, but here's what I did; adding two terminal blocks to my firewall to better power things in the engine area:
[img]http://www.alanhorvath.com/54chevy/chevypics/wiring_1.jpg[/img]
You can read more about all this Here

I moved that black wire to the BAT terminal for now and voila; I'm charging. I may route that wire to the starter terminal.

I'm not going for original under the engine. I've got Offy intake with progressive 2bbl carbs, Fenton headers with glass packs, HEI distributor, and Offy valve cover. She looks clean, but not original.

Thanks again guys. I'm cruisin'.

Jerry

Tonite after dark turn on your headlights, then you'll see why it's better to sense from the terminal on your starter.

That's great that it's working now. The picture was a big help.

Yes, try running the wire to the starter and let us know if there's any improvement. It would be helpful information for others who have bought the CD harness. Did the harness come with the connectors already crimped on, or did you have to do that?

Most of the connectors were on the harness. I had to install the ones for the horn relay (maybe one or two others). All-in-all, I was pleased with the harness.