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| | | | Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 45 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 45 | When I drove it home, I could tell it had some extra rolling resistance. I got out and found the right front brake hub to be far hotter than the left. I thought it had a broken return spring and dragging shoes.
Saturday I jacked it up and to my surprise, I could turn the wheel/tire. It didn't seem to be very tight at all, but did have play in the hub. Seems to move inside only.
I tightened up the castle nut as much as I could, but something is wrong inside.
I read where someone wrote that these bearings need to be replaced as a pair. If so,why?
Are these bearings usually available at a local auto parts?
Truck is just yard driven for now, but I want to get it on the road soon.
Thanks
All you can do is all you can do.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy bozer, there are two different inner bearing possibilities for your truck, depending on whether or not your truck has a heavy duty axle or not. The heavy duty axle inner bearing is a tappered roller bearing, two piece unit, Napa p/ns are BR25583 $59.40, and BR25519 $28.35. The standard axle inner bearing is a ball bearing, Napa p/n BRG B46 $129.60, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 45 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 45 | Thanks 3B.
That will certainly help.
Bozer
All you can do is all you can do.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | You don't have to replace both inner and outer bearings, but I do since it just makes more sense to me. If one is worn, the other could be also, espescially if one is worn to the point of distributing metal shards or powder into the hub which can easily wear out a good bearing given time.
Replace as a unit and tear it apart only once.
Jeff | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 120 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 120 | Get the specs. And ensure they are installed correctly. The old cup-and-cone bearings on my '47 1.5 ton need 33 ft-lb on them, then back off to first castellatiuon on the nut. So they run with a lot of preload.
I expect that tapered rollers will run with a small amount of play (ie do up until just starting to tighten by fingers, back off to first castellation).
'47 Canadian RHD 1.5 ton truck
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