The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1951 1/2 ton water heater shut off control valve

Does anybody know where I can get a water heater shut off flow control valve for a 1951 216 motor. The one I have has the tab broken off at the top and leaks in the open position. Is it simply a "O" ring that seals it in the open position? I guess I could braze a new tab on the top if they a hard to find.

Here is a Rebuild Kit with instructions. I have no idea if there are more than two parts.

If your copper heat tube is cracked, broken, or missing, you'll most likely not be able to rebuilt it.

I anyone buys a valve (or gets a valve rebuilt) by the eBay company at the link above, please let us know how it works out (and the $$).

That's it Tim, the whole shootin' match, one rubber seal:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/113817237
Replacing it is about as straight forward as you can get. The
problem is you have to be very carful when you bend the four
tabs up so as not to fatigue them anymore than you have to. You
will only get one chance because it's like bending the lid on a
tin can, flex them a few times and they snap off. If it's been
taken apart before then you stand about a 90% chance that the
tabs will break off.
Setting them can be a problem also. This is a plate I made up to
support the valve while I set the tabs with the staking die:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/113817543

Alvin went the whole route and he actually unsolderd the bottom
plug and took out the valve plunger. Maybe he can post a couple
of pictures of that dissasembly.

The valve is still usable even if the tube is broken off, it
just won't self adjust to the temperature.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

can you clarify what tab is broken?
also when it leaks, does fluid leak in the cab or do you mean it leaks by in the loop?

How well do these Ranco valves function in terms of moderating the cab temperature? The reason I ask is that I have a bad one and I am considering modifying it to not leak and just be there for the authentic look. Has anyone done this?

They work, just OK, but nothing to shout about, not at all as
good as the new cars. The valve actually doesn't seal all that
good and the thermostatic diaphragm is slow to respond. (I've
tested it in the freezer)
If it's lost it's charge you can still manually adjust it to
open or closed position with the cam.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Maybe these will give you the idea....there are some more shots down in my photobucket.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/000_0188.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/000_0194.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/000_0196.jpg

Thanks for jumpin' in Alvin. That plunger really is a rough seal
isn't it. It's more of a simple restriction rather then an
actual shut off. I would have expected some sort of a tapperd
seat, along the same lines of a valve & seat. I'm guessing that
the prongs are just to keep it centered in the bore. I see you
straightened them up, how do you suppose they get bent like that??

Denny G

This is not the valve I need. I am looking for the heater water flow control valve that is attached to the thermostat housing. It is a simple manually operated shut off valve. Can't seem to find a supplier.

Gary - not likely to find that item from a vintage vendor, yours may be an add-on anyway, check a plumbing supply store, lotsa different types available cheap

Bill

Are you talking about a shut off valve like this????
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/148994266
Any one of the vendors will have them.

Dg

I think this is what he is looking for:
Ebay Shutoff Valve

Man, they sure are proud of that. You can buy a similar valve at a plumbing supply for about $20.

Now add on the $17.50 for shipping. Shucks, you could buy
several or more complete 216's for that kind of money, one is
bound to have a shut off and look at all the spare parts you
would have on hand.

Denny G

You are right about all that, Denny.

But, if you have to have the real thing, "they are not making them anymore", having an shiny/clean new original will cost you. "Serious" owners/collectors (with deep pockets and no patience) do not not care about the $$$.

Here is a discount valve - free shipping. But, you do not get the box.

If I was willing to go $100, I'd go the extra $20 and forget about this one?

Or, put a Watch on this one and see what the market will bear.

Here is a deal: the "normal" price is $350 if you can prove it is going on a 53-55 235 Corvette?

Non-original-looking "reproductions" are available, but some of us jerks know the difference.

I have experienced shipping charges that bad/high from Jim Carter when he has sent partial shipments of relatively small-sized parts. It hurts when you know the cost of USPS 2-day Priority Mail, with free packaging and free pick-up at the sender's address.