BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
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| | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,274 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 481 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 481 | My son and I are almost ready to start with the initial body repair work on our 1958 Apache shortbed. We are down to correcting the last leak in our threaded black iron pipe air line and will be cutting out the rusted rear cab corners as our first repair spot, but only after doing some practice work on some scrap metal. This is our first frame-off restoration and we are going slowwww.
My question: We need to purchase a cut-off tool and would like some recommendations from the masters. We did not install an oiler as part of our air system as we want to use the system for painting. If we do end up with some air tools, we can always apply oil at the tool. Would just like to hear some pros and cons for using air tools over electric powered tools and vice versa. | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 97 | When it comes to most cutting I like electric. A good 4" grinder you can do lots with and many attachments if you want a bigger disc but you'll need one with a removable guard.
Air grinders take significant volume CFMs to perform well and maintain power.
I have both and like my two handled air grinder for jobs that require a variable trigger speed. It is lighter in weight for lots of surface grinding and metal finishing. Most of the attachments; brushes, discs etc will work on both. Buffing is good with the air grinder, a flexible backing disc and bonnet.
You'll also want a small die grinder and air is fine. You can put on small discs and bits for detail work. Again variable speed. | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | as you already have the compressor, you'll find nothing electric beats a good die grinder for body work, electric angle grinders have their uses for heavier work - an oiler in the line is machine shop setup, most body shops do as you suggest, use daily application of oil to the tools
Bill | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,903 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,903 | I used air for everything up until 10 or 15 years ago. The old electric tools got hot and had to have a physical ground. But electric tools are much better now than they were 40 years ago. We still have a lot of air tools, but we use electric tools a lot more than air now. An air hose is clumsy and it is noisy with big compressors running all the time. Inline oilers seem to break prematurely. We just squirt a little air tool oil in them. As for electric, I buy Metabo and Fein. They are made in Germany and are not the Chinese junk out old name brands have went to. | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 481 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 481 | Thanks to all that have provided me input into my inquiry. I have also considered the bulky air hose having to be drug around versus dragging around a 50 or 100 ft. drop chord (of the proper size of course).
Not having purchased any air tools yet other than a combination sand/soda blaster and already owning a number of small electric tools, including a 4" electric end grinder, I am likely to be getting at least an electric die grinder/cut-off tool to start our body work. | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 | Air tools go a long way in shop safety. When doing sheet metal work it's easy to cut the electric cords on sharp edges making for dangerous conditions. Also dust/fumes in the shop from sanding or painting are explosive and can be ignited by a spark coming from the electric motor on sanders or drills. Be safe! Mike B  | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 719 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 719 | I use a 90 degree die grinder working on aircraft, there are all kinds of fun little spots you'd never get a full sized grinder into. With the different bits and adapters available I can use it for several different jobs. I use it for stripping, sanding, shaping, cutting, fastener removal, it's easily the most used tool in my box. And being way more compact than anything electric with the same speed and torque is a plus. Using a good 360 swivel air adapter makes getting into tight spots easier, that was always my biggest gripe with air tools, but with adapter it makes life a lot easier. Sure, it wont slice through a body panel like a 4" electric grinder, but the cuts are more precise, and when dealing with steel body panels, going slower and making less heat would also help prevent warping that you have to deal with when it comes time for the finish and paint. But that's just me, and I aint no master!  1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber" 2007 Chevy Avalanche 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk, 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things. But thats just MY opinion! :P
| | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 17 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 17 | I've just begun my first project as well. I've been working on my drivers side front fender during adult nights at the local Vo-tech high school. So far I have constructed three patches. I'll post pictures soon. I have used a combination of air tools at the school and my own electric tools. I have found both to be useful in different situations. To cut/grind in really tight places I've even used my Dremel It has been especially useful in cutting welds that held old patches in place, esp brazing welds. To make long sustained straight cuts I've used the air tools. I personally had difficulty cutting around a curve, or grinding in tight places. I have noticed that my newest purchase a 4" Makita angle grinder (consumer grade) gets "hot" if I run it too long. My guess is that it will eventually burnout. Bottom line I use a combination, my personal thought is that if you get the right air tools they will last a lifetime where as I expect that I will burn out my electric tools and they will need replacement
| | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 177 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 177 | I am all about air tools, as long as you have a compressor that can keep up.
Cheap way to find out if you like pneumatic is to head over the HF and pick up a die grinder and some Roloc disks for <$15.
Biggest downside is you have to deal with the hose, but I think air tools are typically lighter/smaller then electric. | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,329 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,329 | Actually I find it a waste of good 5 HP compressor and electricity to run it, to use a little air tool for more than a few minutes of use here and there is okay, but not for hours on end, bad enough to have to media blast with it. Its way better to use a much lower powered and cheaper electric tool, cheaper than a $1200 to $2500 compressor (replacement value). The compressor just doesn't need all the wear and tear and electric consumption.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | IMO: You need both electric and air as said. Air for blast cabinet, painting, die grinder, DA, small impact and blowing stuff off. (these are the basics.) Electric for large impact, cut off/4 1/2" grinder, drills, bench tools, (these are the basics.) If you are serious, you need a spring loaded hose reel and cord reel. Winding up hose and cord all the time will tire you out. In my opinion a minimum of a 5 HP, two stage, belt drive, 60 gal, vertical compressor. You will develop you own preference for which tools are better for air or elect. I find that the hose is a bother, oiling the tools a messy bother, running the compressor a bother, noisy compressor a bother, running out of air/power a bother, but stationary plumbed blast cabinet and iron pipe ports all over is handy (and you can fill up your tires anytime)  | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,168 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,168 | Electric for large impact? | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | Is that a question or comment? | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,168 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,168 | I got a question mark there 'cause I'm curious what you have for a large electric impact. | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | Got mine about 8 years ago at Checker/Oreilly's for $65. (1/2", 250 Lbs) Not an expensive one but has lasted. I like electric tools like this. Also, I can't take my air tools to my daughters house to fix their cars. I use my electric impact a whole lot in my shop. As you know, taking apart old rusted truck bumpers, brackets and all the other bolts is hard work by hand. Squirt them with liquid wrench a while and hit them with the impact... and of course, lug nuts. Google "electric impact" and you will find DeWalt, Milwaukee, Craftsman, Porter Cable, Autozone brand and on down to Harbour Freight. I am talking corded NOT cordless. 1/2" , 250 lbs torque and up. If anyone is going to buy one, get the most amps for your budget. When buying electric tools, they are basically priced by the amps. Name brands don't mean much to me anymore. Sometimes big brands go bad and little brands last. Lifetime is lifetime on any brand, so look for that too. I have a 3/8 air impact and a air ratchet. | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,168 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,168 | For heavy duty torque, I'll use some IR 3/4" or 1" drive titanium series guns. Usually connected to a 1" hose. But we're talking some pretty big / serious jobs. If I need to get away from the shop air system to do some work, and it is a serious job, the shop truck has a mobile compressor. Lately, I've been using the Milwaukee 28v impact and it keeps up with the job. With a pair or more of batteries, I can run that gun all day. It has a rating of 325 ft lbs. No bad for a cordless machine.
For your application at your daughters' house, that corded impact sounds perfect. I think we used to have one of those around the shop but not for some time. I guess with an unlimited air supply, we'll grab an air tool almost every time. | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 431 Stovebolt Photo Moderator | Stovebolt Photo Moderator Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 431 | Hi,
This is an interesting thread. Which model sand/soda blaster did you buy and are you happy with it ?
Thanks! Joe 1947 - 3800 dually known as "Deadwrench"Link to a few photosIn this world there are givers and takers. The takers eat well, the givers sleep well. | | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | I have gone to great lengths to make my air system powerful so I go with air tools, but there is a great movement and for good reason to electric. Lots of advances there.
As far as sand blasters, my experiences are on my website in the how-to section. | | |
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