The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1956 chevy 3100 king pin troubles

I have looked at the factory build manual, shop manual and the tech artical here in the stove bolt site. The only thing I can find holding the king in in place is the tapered bolt. I did not see a dust cap or locking ring. The shop manual says it does not need to be reamed but goes into mire detail on the 3/4" tons and above.

After I have removed the tapered bolt and nut, is all that is needed is BFH and something to beat it through the spindle? I tried a few rounds with a small sledge hammer and 3/4 punch type tool. But its not moving too far. Did i miss something or do i need to eat a bigger breaskfast and try again?

You do have to drill and pry out the dust caps. I just did one the other day. Well.... one as far as the caps are out, but the pin won't budge on mine either. Will probably go ahead and drop the axle and have a shop press the KP's and the bushings out. But I'll be watching to see how your goes!

There is no lock ring. There are different methods for removing the king pin. I drove mine down and out using a sledge hammer and ended up damaging the axle bores. The best metod is to use a hydraulic press.

1955-2nd Shop Manual king-pin replacement instructions.

As described by CASO, check "Disassembly": the king pin plug stakes have to be chiseled out/away - there is a top/bottom plug that had been "staked" into place.

I have only once been able to knock out the king pins with the axle on the truck. All other times, I have had to remove the axle and use a hydraulic press (or, take the axle-assembly to a truck shop) to remove the king pins. After the king pins are removed, the floating 1/2 ton bushings should then come out fairly easily.

You could try a bigger breakfast and a bigger hammer - you have nothing to lose.

Thanks guys I will compromise, I think I will try a bigger breakfast and have them pressed out. Thanks again

Oh by the way, is there any trick to installing the new ones other than lining up the pin and the holes for the grease zerks or should i have them pressed in also? The book says they do not have to be reamed since its a 1/2 ton.

Update. I thought i would roll the dice and give it another wack with the sledge. The drivers side took a little time but finally came out. The passengers side took about five mins. Nothing appears damaged. Now i guess the trick now is the install after i receive the new ones from the parts house. Any advice to the install will be greatly appreciated. Learning as i go.

If the king pins fit into the axle with no wobbling, and the bushings are not very loose in the knuckles/spindles, you'll end up with a good result. Install the shims and bearings as described in the Shop Manual. The installation of 1/2 ton king pin parts can be very straight forward.

Follow the instructions in the Shop Manual.

Freezing the king pins will help if the axle-fit is good and tight.

Still working on the 1956 Chevy 3100. I have a few more questions. I received my king pin kit from LMC. However after reading the shop manual I am still confused. I looked in the pic book of the factory assembly manual and it says look at sheet 11 in section 3 and the last sheet i have stops at 10. It gets more indepth with the 3/4 ton and above in the shop manual. When I removed my spindles they had soo much grease and ?????? I was not able to see where the shims goes, as I was cleaning the grease and ????? out.

I know I ask a lot but my first build and doing it alone. You guys are all I have and have been great, so please bear with me.

Here is the kit I bought.

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums.../2013-02-15_01-28-48_949_zps725658ce.jpg

Question #1 Does it go from the top to the bottom #1 spindle #2 shim or shims #3 axle #4 thrust washer bearing assembly and #5 spindle?

Question #2 The copper plated washers do they go housing, copper plated washer facing copper plated washer then housing to form the thrust washer assembly?

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums.../2013-02-18_00-50-51_398_zps4fc0c656.jpg

Question #3 Do I pack the thrust washer with grease and if so what kind of grease or lubericant, the same as the wheel bearings?

Question #4 The thrust washer assembly which side is touching the spindle? Is it the larger side or the smaller side of the thrust washer? The one side of the housing fits into the other side of the housing with the copper plated washers in between.

Question #5 What type of grease do I use to lubericate the king pin bushings at the zerk fittings?

Question #6 How can I tell which shim to use is there a measurement? I have 2 different types of shims in the kit I purchased.

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums.../2013-02-18_00-51-43_557_zps4ef58cc5.jpg

Question #7 Which side of the dust cap faces the king pins?

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums.../2013-02-18_00-53-11_825_zpsc8a3087f.jpg

thanks again for the support

Do the 1955-2nd series diagrams and instructions pertain to your year?

If not, are you using a 1956 Shop Manual, or do you have the 1956 Supplement Manual? If you are you using a "Supplement" Manual, you also need the earlier year's Manual.

The locations of the various parts should be shown and described in the Shop Manual. The placement of bearings and shims, and the measurement for the shim are described in the Shop Manual.

The domed middle of he dust caps should be outward.

Chassis lubrication is used to lubricate king pins and any part of the assembly.

Your questions are very clear and carefully written. If you have read the Shop Manuals, some of the answers are in there.

I understand you quandary regarding which side is up for the bearing. Since the bearing is under the knuckle and the weight of the vehicle is resting on the top of the bearing, I think I have put the larger surface of the bearing upwards.

If you have the appropriate manuals, do not be put off by my post. Keep asking questions. This repair procedure is straight forward if you have done it before. For a first-time job, this procedure can be confusing.

Thanks again,

Still would to hear from anyone else that has any advice that can help tbis stovebolt "greenie" out. Yes I bought all three books from tuckers the 55 shop manual, 56 supplement and the factory assembly manual between the three i get confused.

Thanks guys

Tiny Jaime, hope you see this. I also live in Henderson, NV;
I am restoring a 57 GMC and right now replacing the kingpins and brakes. It would be good to get together on the restorations.

Update:
I second the need to remove the axle to remove the king pin.
1/2 ton's all originally had floating bushings making it possible to remove them with a good breakfast and at least a MFH AND a vice.... and some Kroil or ATF.

I found the key is to place the piece so it rests ON the vice not suspended in the jaws. I still used the jaws to hold it steady, supporting the other end with my adjustable roller, but made sure it was solid against the vice (or your chosen block of Al) on the bottom of the knuckle. I tried several times with the axle just in the jaws and thought "no go" but when I realized the forces were being dispersed the wrong way and supported the knuckle on the bottom, the pin started moving after half a dozen blows with a 3 lb jack, my 1/2" x 6" 'stovebolt with the head ground down to fit' drift and some Kroil.

SAVE THE KING PIN for when you do the springs! It makes a great perfect size drift for the spring bushing removal!

Hey classic one i tried to pm you but you were over your limit. Send me you email and i will send you my phone #. Its [email protected]

Ok guys here is what i did so i did not leave anyone in the dark. After beating the darn things out, i had the straight axel power coated. Then found a local shop who pressed the new ones in for 45 bucks. I guess i cheated. I am going to buy a press for future projects and other things.

I am pleased with the results. I just wanted to limit my damages to the straight axel after the fresh paint.

Thanks to all again it will be easier next go around.

Tiny