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Replaced both front parking light bulbs with 1057s. Park lights still don't work. VOM reads voltage at both terminals. I think voltage drop may be too great to illuminate the parking lights.
What is correct voltage reading for park lamps and turns signals?

What's the reading on your VOM from the + post on the battery to ground? The reading should be the same at the lamp socket - there should be almost no voltage drop.

Only one of the terminals on the lamp socket should be hot when the park lamps are switched on. Of course, the other terminal is for the turn signal.

If you are getting a large voltage drop, I would suspect that one of the connections is bad.

Make shure your socket is grounded.

If I connect the outbound parking light wire to the outbound headlight terminal those lights work. The flashers are the only thing working on the front parking lights. The harness is brand new (ChevyDuty 6v system) as are the turn signals (7 wire system)with dual element sockets. The truck is now 12v, but that shouldn't make a difference. I will retest the sockets with the VOM.

I assume you mean you moved the wire on the switch from the front parking light terminal to the head light terminal. You are aware that the front parking lights are supposed to be off when the switch is pulled out all the way as 4onthefloor mentioned earlier?

Do the tailights work? I connected my front parking lights to the same terminal on the switch as the taillights and leaving nothing connected to the front parking light terminal. Doing this means that the front parking lights will not switch off when the head lights are on.

It sounds like your ground is OK and the wiring from the switch to the bulb is OK.

Battery tests right at 12v. Front light socket only reads about 9.4v when flasher is on. No voltage when only park light is on. When both flasher and park light is on only flasher circuit works and is real slow and still reads about 9v. Light intensity changes of course with use of eiher the 1057 or 1154 bulb. Tail lights work fine. Turn signals are wired directly to battery circuit, not thru ignition switch. When I moved wires around to test circuits, I did so both at the light switch and at the fuse block. All wires have now been moved back to their original positions.

It sounds to me like you have a bad ground at the sockets. Dual filament bulbs will slightly ground the higher resistance filament (the dim one) through the bright filament and work at about half brightness if the socket ground is bad. The flasher may still work but the speed will be off and the park lights will act funny. I have seen this effect first hand.