The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Original Metal Specs

I am in the process of replacing my king pins, while doing that I wanted to replace some rusted out areas around the fenders. Most of the parts are 90% there, a few areas need some replacement strips welded on.

What are the specs on the original metal around the fenders? I am using a flux core welder, any recommendations on wire type? I was thinking of using 304 SS replacements to help prevent them from rusting out again. Has this been done before, or should I look to just match the original metal?

Well fenders range from 18-19-20 gauge, running boards 16-18, I can't say you can weld s/s in there but that is not how they are done at restoration shops. Gas welded patches of the same gauge metal. Gas (oxy-acetylene) leaves the joint the softest of any of the welding processes. The softness of the joint is good to have as part of the welding process has shrinking of the metal "every" weld joint will have some shrinkage. Now with gas welding it can be hammered smooth and very little or no filler needed. If you like to sling some mud just filler up the weld joint. There are a couple of good booklets one is the Key to Metal Bumping, and there is a good Gov't/military version too.
I've been making patch panels for well showing my age now about 40 years. If you would like more info I can hook you up with some websites and some publications.

I have never done gas welding, I can look into it though.

Would a sheet of 18 GA Hot Rolled Steel work for making the patch panels?

Hey Terry! I think this is the gov't publication you are talking about:

http://www.hnsa.org/doc/pdf/metal-body-repair.pdf


Redlegs, most hot rolled has a mill scale that is a pain to get rid of when prepping for paint. I'd suggest using a cold rolled. It doesn't have the mill scale, normally it has just a bit of an oil film on it from the manufacturer to give it some protection from flash rust during shipping. It's fairly easy to clean off.

Robert
You are correct! I could not find it when I posted the reply, Thanks for posting it!
Redlegs the hot rolled has mill scale,unless it is "p&o" pickled and oiled, cold rolled is what I have been using. You should be able to find 18 and 20 gauges used by a commercial sheet metal shops and distributors, 19ga is a little harder to find. The best welds are between equal gauges, if you don't need large pcs, a sheet metal shop mmay sell you cut-offs for a good price! i know someone in the Cincy area let me ask him if he has some 19 gauge, please double check your guage, but I think it is 19, don't worry if it isn't exact cause sheet metal varies!!! thin 19 gauge is 20 gauge. Nothing goes to waste!

I think the biggest problem using stainless steel is paint does not like to stick very good to it.

Stainless steel has a higher coefficient of expansion than mild steel. Strange things might occur when in the sun on a hot day.

Use same metal. No SS. Measure the thinkness if you want to know what the thinkness is. Your Flux core is OK for repair. Go slooooooow wait for cool down each spot weld, move all over, blow shop air on it to cool, same when grinding. Thin filler OK.