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| | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 7 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 7 | I just wanted to let all who are interested know that I was able to successfully repair the rear main seal leak in my 59 Apache 235 with the engine in place. I was able to use the Felpro orange colored neoprene seal.
Basically, I followed the procedure outlined in the Tech section of this site, HOWEVER, it is not as easy as described. It was surely worth doing, yet be sure to study all the threads on this forum closely on what guys have experienced. The following are some suggestions based on what I experienced.
1 - After removal of the rear main cap, and loosening the rest of the caps, I followed the advice of HOTROD LINCOLN on this forum and used two pry bars on the flywheel teeth to get the crank to gap from the old rope seal...just enough, maybe 1/16 of an inch...to use the technique Hotrod Lincoln also suggested, to thread a sheet metal screw into one end of the old seal and pull it out with a pliers. Brilliant!
2 - to loosen the front bearing cap - there are also two 9/16 head bolts which secure the cam cover which need to be removed as well.
3- The bearing caps are secured with big bolts(3/4 inch head) and are torqued with 100 lbs, which was difficult to accomplish from under the vehicle. I was athletically sore for two days after.
4- Don't give up! It's a tough job, but I had to be patient and go back to the instructions a couple of times. It was worth it in the end.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | After loosening the front main bearing cap and the two bolts in the timing cover did you then need to regasket the timing cover?
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 7 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 7 | No, I did not. I am either fortunate/lucky in this instance, the seal was not breached, or it was not even necessary to remove those bolts. No procedures in all the threads made mention of it. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I only asked because I thought the timing cover is gasketed to the front main bearing cap as well as the block. If so then by loosening the front main bearing you have a chance for a leak between the cap and timing cover if the gasket was disturbed at all. It may seal after tightening it again, it may not, if you're lucky you're lucky if not then you know what the issue is.
Grigg
Last edited by Grigg; 01/21/2013 12:40 PM. Reason: oops, I was confused, see reply below
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | It was an opportunity like this(and thread I read somewhere) that inspired me to reverse those two bolts... edit: and then this gets posted
Last edited by CASO; 01/21/2013 11:55 AM.
Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Yes, the timing cover lower bolt modification is well worth doing!
Sorry about that, I am/was a little confused about the assembly. The earlier question I had about timing cover gasket should really be about sealing the front of the main bearing cap to the front engine mount plate, and or will the oil pan seal that area?
I can now see/remember that the timing cover leaking shouldn't be an issue. What may be the issue is seepage from between the main cap and the engine mount plate if that joint was disturbed and not resealed?
Grigg | | |
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