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#913313 01/21/2013 7:45 AM
Joined: Aug 2008
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I finally set aside some time to replace my rusted out floor pans on my '65. I removed the seat, floormat, and door on the driver's side. The previous owner had a pop-riveted patch, bondoed to the floor as well as a lot of gooey stuff daubed all over the place. Anyway, I got all that stuff removed and realized that I'll need to replace just about everything. I removed the rocker panel first, hoping that there would be something left of the lower door jamb...but there isn't and the flange that has the three holes to hold the fender on are long gone. There is nothing there to line up with, or to get a reference point from. My plan is to remove and replace the lower door hinge jamb first, then replace the lower kick panel piece, then weld in the floor brace and floor pan. My question is how to locate the first piece...the lower door jamb. Any help would be appreciated from someone who has done this before. I am thinking that the lower door jamb replacement has a step on it where the rocker panel welds on and that would be the starting point. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help. Jim

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It sounds like you may have welding experience,so this is just a reminder. If you are needing to remove that much supporting metal, I would weld in cross bracing in critical areas. After that much cutting, getting the door to realign corectly will be very agravating otherwise. Tack diaganol bracing across the cab WITH the door closed, then remove the door to finish the welds. Then add the door frame bracing. Cut cabs without bracing tend to torque.


Drew
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Thanks Drew. Your suggestion is a good one and I will certainly consider it. I have replaced floor pans in an El Camino but they weren't as far gone as this truck...I was hoping to get a reference dimension from perhaps a hinge screw hole to the bottom of the hinge post panel...or something along those lines. This whole floor is just gone...I mean it ain't there. I know the hinge post bottom replacement panel must weld in first...then the kick panel and floor pans can bolt together and everything can be checked, tacked , and rechecked until it is just right be fore full welding. If I get the first part in the wrong place, all the parts will be in the wrong place and the door won't fit...I know there are many out there who have been in this spot. What did you all do? Thanks, Jim.

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By all means cross brace like Drew suggest. I just went through the same thing and found no easy way. Did a lot of measuring, remeasuring and guessing. My door post was damaged from the bottom hinge down. All those step fit aftermarket pieces are necessary but don't expect them to fit all that well. Tack it together and check the door fit. I didn't get it right the first time and underestimated how much the floor drops at the outboard end so the door drug at the bottom due to where I located the step flange on the rocker to door post replacement piece. Was glad it was just tacked. The other thing was locating the fender flange plate. get that wrong and you'll find the fender doesn't fit when its too late. It was a lot of trial and error and left/right comparison but i've dry fitted the fenders and doors, everything seems to fit. Probably not much help other than knowing your not alone. Good Luck with it.
Bob

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Bob,
Thanks for the response. It gives me comfort to know I am on the right track. All my repair panels came in yesterday and you are exactly right...they don't fit all that well. I think tacking and checking...and then double checking with the door remounted is the order of the day. Once everything is tacked and the door fits all around the rubber flange evenly, with a uniform gap on the outside, it would be safe to do the final welding. Thanks again, Jim.

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The ones I've done I do the floorpan first, then the door hinge pillar, then rocker. Gives you good new metal to weld to. If the cab is bolted to the frame still and you are doing one side at a time additional bracing is not really necessary, these cabs are pretty tough.

After floor pan is replaced, add the door pillar patch, tack in place and re-install door, I also like to test the rocker fit at the same time. Weld door pillar fully, either tack or sheetmetal screw rocker in place to check all gaps. Remove door, weld rocker fully.


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
Pictures in my Photobucket
1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
1964 Suburban 350/700R4
1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6

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