The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Oil Spray pipe for a 235 engine

Does anyone have a photo or diagram as to what the oil spray pipe should look like for a 235 six-cylinder engine? This is the small diameter pipe that is part of the rocker arm assembly. Mine is crimped and facing the rear of the engine and is located near the center of the rocker arm assembly.

Thanks for your help as always.

What year 235?

Have you checked the Shop Manual for that year?

Here are some illustrations.

Tim,

The engine is for my '58 Apache. Have some photos I will upload and let you know. Have not checked the shop manual, but will.

John

John,

Do you need better illustrations than shown in two places on the link that I gave above? They are from the 1958 Shop Manual.

Yes, please post photos.

Sounds like some backyard mechanic bent the pipe around for some
reason John. The illustrations that Tim posted clearly show's
what the oil connector should look like and how it is installed.
DG

try this link

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=845727

If you are looking for a new you can find one at obschevy.com. there maybe other companies that sells them. Obsolete chevy parts Co. has them listed as p/n 3836566 for 1954-58, p/n 3835528 for a 1940-53, p/n 838217 for a 1937-39, and p/n 836867 for a 1933-36.

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/stovebolt56/rockershaftoil_zps8d58efdf.jpg

I took my 55 head and used it for parts on my 56 head. My 56 and my 1958 -62 tube was cut and crimped towards the top (looked like a "L" shaped. My 55 was not and the tube went around the rocker arm rod back down towards the bottom of the head. The guy at the machine shop told me they crimped them to force more oil to the rocker arms.

Here is a pic off my 3836848 head in my 1958-62 "235" block. http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums...e/2013-01-20_08-31-09_48_zpsaaa73812.jpg and http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums.../2013-01-20_08-31-48_263_zps3bd66482.jpg

Here is some pics off of my 1955 block with the 3701887 head http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums.../2012-12-11_09-00-01_877_zps92ecdb86.jpg and http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums.../2012-12-11_09-00-38_933_zps646d4462.jpg

Here is some pics off my 1956 block with the 3836848 head. http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/stovebolt56/2012-12-11_09-03-39_835_zps0a488e07.jpg


Some one else can chime in and give thier knowledge but I can only tell you what I have.

Here is some pic's of the one used from 1953-58 Connector
1959-62 were pinched off from the factory. One example

Photo of my oil connector from a 1958.

http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums...Oil%20Connector/DSC00185_zps014682bd.jpg

One more photo of my oil connector.

http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums...Oil%20Connector/DSC00186_zpsd7da3b83.jpg

There is not a big problem using a pinched off tube on a 1953-58 engine. The biggest problem seems to be keeping the valve cover gasket from leaking with all the extra oil.

I see you have aluminum supports. That is only the second set I have seen.

I'm sorry. Please educate me on where the aluminum supports are in my two photos so I will know what you are talking about.

There are 6 supports that the shafts go through and mount the assembly to the head. Example

Thanks. After rereading your comment and taking another look at my two photos I thought those were what you were referring to.

Looks like I will be buying a new oil connector. Somewhere along the way mine has gotten 'nibbled' off and partialy crimped.

No TC. These are great.

TC,

What is the trick, actually the correct procedure, to removing the rocker arm shaft far enough to get the old bent/pinched oil connector off and a new one installed? I have a vision of valve springs going all over my garage and then be able to find the all but one.

John,
Check out figure 16.

The valve springs are held in place with caps and keys/locks.

Tim,

Again thank you. I had visions of valve springs going everywhere. Have not had many motors apart myself.

With the valves being under different compression due to where the pistons are, some of the springs are going to have more force pushing up when I disconnect the hold-down blocks and again when I try to reassemble the rocker arm assembly. How do I get it all put back together? Is this a one or two-person job?

John

John,

For reassembly, you slowly screw in the 6 rocker-arm posts. You have to make sure the push rod ends stay in the ends of the rocker arms as you tighten down.

Make sure you have the rocker arms in the correct order - try not to disassemble the rocker arms/springs from the hollow shafts/rods. The 1960 rocker arms drawings and instructions are on pages 8-9 and onwards. 8-11 and 8-12 have terse instructions and a few photos.